wipe on polyurethane finishes

[Bruce McC]

Has anyone had any experience in using the wipe on polyurethane finishes
on guitars?

[kiwigeo]

Haven't used it myself but here's a good link to method used by R Mottola:

http://liutaiomottola.com/PrevPubs/Wipi ... arnish.htm

[Puff]

You mean varnish?
You can wipe it, you can rub it, you can brush it, you can roll it, you can spray it, you can dunk it..... and it will still be varnish. Good stuff

Sort of Rock Island Line stuff

[graham mcdonald]

I have used the satin Minwax polyurethane that you can get from Bunnings. I was feeling lazy and used it on a classical guitar over a zpoxy grain filling. It was very easy to use and quite an acceptable flat, rather than satin, finish. It doesn't have the satin look of a Danish Oil or a tung oil wipe-on, but was quick and simple. I haven't tried the gloss version.

cheers

[Bruce McC]

Hi Kiwigeo, Puff and Graham

Thanks for your replies. As I don't have access to spray gear I will try my luck
with a wipe on finish.

[Lillian]

Afshar, what part of the world do you call home?

[Bruce McC]

Hello Lillian

I live in Canberra Australia

[Lillian]

Well, TruOil is off the table for you.

I've been successful using MinWax wipe on polyurethane products, but I don't know if it is the same product as you guys get.

There is always French Polishing.

[graham mcdonald]

The tins we get here are American packaging, so I would think the same stuff. An alternative is a Danish Oil which both Watyl and Cabots (and maybe others) make. A very simple application, and while it doesn't look like a full gloss, perfectly flawless lacquer it will protect the instrument, at least from finger marks. I was a little reluctant to put it on the soundboard, as it does soak in to some extent, but I tried it on a couple of mandolins, which I had strung up without any finish on, and it didn't seem to make any difference to the sound. I didn't use any grain filling, so the pores of the wood are visible, but a few coats of the Danish oil gives a pleasant semi-gloss look.

cheers

graham

[Lillian]

Graham, what about sealing the soundboard with shellac or egg whites first? Do you think the Danish Oil would dry sitting on top?

[graham mcdonald]

I figured the whole point of the wipe-on oil finishes was that it is really simple and doesn't require any other steps other than a few coats of the oil

I did put some on a piece of spruce, and then cut it in half to see how far it had penetrated and it was only half a mm or so and then it dries anyway, and the sound on the mandolins didn't change, so I didn't worry about it. There is a violin maker in the US somewhere who uses Tung Oil finishes on his violins, and although I am sure that outrages all the purists, he has been doing it for years.

cheers

graham

[liam_fnq]

I've used minwax poly a bunch of times. I left a pool of it on some WRC soundboard to dry. Then I snapped the piece to check the penetration.I did this because so many self proclaimed experts claimed it soaks in and ruins the tone. The amount that had soaked In was almost impossible to see. This was a very important lesson not in finishing instruments but in not believing hype.
I'll post some photos when I get home. I think it's an excellent beginners finish. Time for me to step up though.

[liam_fnq]

here's some pics
CA pore fill under Minwax Wipe-on Poly (Satin)

[charangohabsburg]

I left a pool of it on some WRC soundboard to dry. Then I snapped the piece to check the penetration.I did this because so many self proclaimed experts claimed it soaks in and ruins the tone. The amount that had soaked In was almost impossible to see. This was a very important lesson not in finishing instruments but in not believing hype.

That was not nice, Liam. Now we have one myth less to believe in.

Beautiful uke, BTW.

[liam_fnq]

I left a pool of it on some WRC soundboard to dry. Then I snapped the piece to check the penetration.I did this because so many self proclaimed experts claimed it soaks in and ruins the tone. The amount that had soaked In was almost impossible to see. This was a very important lesson not in finishing instruments but in not believing hype.

That was not nice, Liam. Now we have one myth less to believe in.

Beautiful uke, BTW.

Don't worry Markus, we can still hang on to the one about HHG requiring years of training, a scientific lab and a degree in chemistry to use properly

[Bruce McC]

Thank you LIam. Nice looking uke, what is the timber on the back?

Afshar

[liam_fnq]

That's New Guinea Rosewood. Probably the most common joinery timber up here in FNQ and a great tonewood to boot. I can buy it by the shed load up here.

[charangohabsburg]

That's New Guinea Rosewood.

Is this Pterocarpus indicus, also called "Asian Padouk"?

Probably the most common joinery timber up here in FNQ

If this is really Pterocarpus indicus: ...and: my congratulations that you...

can buy it by the shed load up here.

[needsmorecowbel]

See Liam I have had no luck with the old HHG in terms of getting a perfect centre seam for my Tops and Backs...And that join on your Uke is damn near invisible. I changed back to Titebond after some mucking around and bob is your uncle...Perfect Seam first time might just use HHG for setting the neck and bridge if i ever get the consistency right dagnammit..

[Allen]

Yes Markus, you've got the correct one. New Guinea Rosewood (Pterocarpus indicus)

It comes in all kinds of figure from really straight, ropey and occasionally we find a quilted board. Colors range from light straw to red with the color of Liams uke the most common. If you pore fill with epoxy it brings out a much redder tone to it.

We've just had a pallet of it dropped off at the Cairns Woodworkers Guild with another 7 on their way apparently. Liam and I have to get in there and rescue the good bits before the rest of the guys turn it into something as mundane as kitchen chopping up boards.

[liam_fnq]

Settle down there Allen. The world desperately needs chopping up boards and we all know the best ones are made by take taking large, defect free, quarter sawn, run out free, imported tonewood boards and chopping them up into small pieces, then glueing them back together. Then running them through a drum sander til the whole thing is bouncing around like a second hand washing machine. Then after spending six hours making it, going to the markets and selling it for $30. Hang on, they're probably making more money out of their hobby than I am.........

[liam_fnq]

See Liam I have had no luck with the old HHG in terms of getting a perfect centre seam for my Tops and Backs...And that join on your Uke is damn near invisible. I changed back to Titebond after some mucking around and bob is your uncle...Perfect Seam first time might just use HHG for setting the neck and bridge if i ever get the consistency right dagnammit..

That top would have been about my 9th centre seam joint so naturally I was an expert by then . Seriously though, I'd say that's probably a titebond joint. These days I use HHG for everything and haven't notice a difference. Bit easier with a uke than a guitar or double bass

[Bruce McC]

Would wipe on poly be safe on chopping boards if I used HHG or should I stick with Titebond?

[Alan Stassforth]

I'm trying the "General arm-r-seal" finish right now on a slab git.
It's a wipe on polyurethane finish.
This is about 5 coats or so.
Takes a lot of coats, but it seems to be building.
I'm thinking about 6 more will do it.
The control cover is ktm-9,
and is a cutoff from the top cap.
See the difference?
I don't know if I'd use it on an acoustic,
but maybe?.......
Alan