Member Intro and a couple of questions.

[Jeremy D]

The No6 is a perfect pickup Jeremy. Buy some wet and dry 180 grit thru 600, a few spray cans of degreaser from super cheap autos (they have a 6 cans for $8 special running at the moment and it is perfect as a honing lube) find yourself a good size bit of 10mm glass (6mm will do but 10mm is the go but you can just use the flat surface of a table saw) grab a can of spray contact adhesive, glue the abrasive to the glass and get to work tuning that sucker up.

Remember before you begin to level the sole to have the plane in one piece all set up as you would use it with only the blade retracted a little so it does not make contact with the abrasive. To clean the worn abrasive from the glass, just pull it off and wipe clean with a rag charged with Shellite (naptha) which you can find at Bunnings next to the turps in the paint section.

Cheers

Kim

Excellent info Kim thank you very much.

In terms of dressing and sharpening the blade. Do you have any recommendations for stones/guides etc?

[Jeremy D]

Jeremy in Gold Coast lingo already sounds different to the Victorian accent Probably dress different too. Should be able to tell them apart
BTW is Bbk anything to do with barbies? On which note it is lunchtime

Nah its just random . mmm sausage.

[Kim]

Absolutely. Use the same sheet glass, abrasive and lube for 'excellent' results. Google 'scary sharp'

Cheers

Kim

[Jeremy D]

Absolutely. Use the same sheet glass, abrasive and lube for 'excellent' results. Google 'scary sharp'

Cheers

Kim

Excellent. Thanks again Kim.

[Lillian]

Scary Sharp works great. I used it for a while. I had issues with finding the higher grits, which I seemed to use the most once all the back polishing was done. The auto parts place had a hard time keeping them in stock and when they did have it the packages were beat up. I bit the bullet and opted for DMT diamond stones and Norton water stones. I've been most happy with them.

As with just about everything we do, there a bunch of ways to get it done.

[Puff]

Two louvre window glass blades glued together for thickness works well and with a few you can have them set up with your various grits which lets you get the most out of the abrasive - beats the hell out of stripping and trashing half-used stuff.

[Jeremy D]

Thanks everyone this method looks great.

For any other newbies out there reading this I found this link that seems to explain it well. http://www.woodshopdemos.com/sss-2.htm

[Kim]

Yep that link covers it quite well. One thing I will add is that a single edge tool can only ever be as sharp as the back is flat. Before you think about working the bevel, you need to get the back flat and polished. I take my bench chisels right up the grits until they are like a mirror.

Back.jpg (191.18 KiB) Viewed 18372 times

This not only gives a superior edge, it also ensures that the edge is easy to maintain with just a few quick passes over the higher grits. I use to sharpen all of my tools for site work by hand on an oil stone. But this was a daily task for heavy carpentry. The high quality edge tools I use on the bench are all sharpened with a honing guide, yes I can sharpen them by hand, but I choose the guide because it is more conservative with hard to find quality steel such as EA Berg etc. Another tip is to use a leather strop charged with green honing compound to maintain the edge between sharpening session but you need to be careful to leave the back of the blade flat...I avoid using a back bevel for this reason.

Here's a link to the type compound I am talking about..works real good:

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merc ... MS-GREENHN


Cheers

Kim

[Jeremy D]

Yep that link covers it quite well. One thing I will add is that a single edge tool can only ever be as sharp as the back is flat. Before you think about working the bevel, you need to get the back flat and polished. I take my bench chisels right up the grits until they are like a mirror.

Back.jpg

This not only gives a superior edge, it also ensures that the edge is easy to maintain with just a few quick passes over the higher grits. I use to sharpen all of my tools for site work by hand on an oil stone. But this was a daily task for heavy carpentry. The high quality edge tools I use on the bench are all sharped with a honing guide, yes I can sharpen them by hand, but I choose the guide because it is more conservative with hard to find quality steel such as EA Berg etc. Another tip is to use a leather strop charged with green honing compound to maintain the edge between sharpening session but you need to be careful to leave the back of the blade flat...I avoid using a back bevel for this reason.

Cheers

Kim

Wow that is a thing of beauty Kim. I am looking to purchase some chisels at the moment. Cumpianos book suggests a 1" and a 1/4" paring chisel. The only ones I can find are from this website http://www.macwood.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=636. Can you suggest a good source for these?

BTW sorry to ask so many questions but you are so helpful I want to pick your brain while i can

[Kim]

http://www.macwood.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=636

Those should be fine Jeremy, but for my money I would do as you have done with the No6...Swapmeets and ebay are the places to look and you will get good bang for your buck on ebay UK or USA at the moment. The main thing to avoid is anything with heavy or even moderate pitting on the back. This is hard steel we are talking here, lite pitting on the back can be lapped out in a hour or so, anything more than that and your hands will be sorry you ever took the task on. Most any old tool steel is worth the effort but some, like EA Berg, you will pay a lot for, great chisels but they are exie so early Marples, like the one pictured above offer good value for those willing to work for it. At around $20 that chisel was cheap to buy. But if you factor in the hrs at the bench just rubbing and rubbing, the price goes up....good thing I don't charge myself labour and the bottom line is, there is nothing new on the market that can compare with the finished result.

Will also add that I find a 3/4" paring chisel is about right for braces but that is a personal thing I guess.

Cheers

Kim

[Jeremy D]

http://www.macwood.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=636

Those should be fine Jeremy, but for my money I would do as you have done with the No6...Swapmeets and ebay are the places to look and you will get good bang for your buck on ebay UK or USA at the moment. The main thing to avoid is anything with heavy or even moderate pitting on the back. This is hard steel we are talking here, lite pitting on the back can be lapped out in a hour or so, anything more than that and your hands will be sorry you ever took the task on. Most any old tool steel is worth the effort but some, like EA Berg, you will pay a lot for, great chisels but they are exie so early Marples, like the one pictured above offer good value for those willing to work for it. At around $20 that chisel was cheap to buy. But if you factor in the hrs at the bench just rubbing and rubbing, the price goes up....good thing I don't charge myself labour and the bottom line is, there is nothing new on the market that can compare with the finished result.

Will also add that I find a 3/4" paring chisel is about right for braces but that is a personal thing I guess.

Cheers

Kim

Thanks a lot Kim. Invaluable information.

[Kim]

Thanks a lot Kim. Invaluable information.

Your welcome Jeremy,

As for guides, I find the Varitas Mk2 is pretty hard to beat but must add that I had to return the first one I bought as it put an unwanted skew on the blade once the brass selector was switched to the micro bevel position. I believe this fault is not all that uncommon and was even apparent in the replacement to a lesser degree. But with attention being paid to apply a mild bias to counteract the skew, the jig works very well indeed. For a cheaper yet very reliable alternative you cannot go past the Eclipse IMHO.

Cheers

Kim

[DarwinStrings]

One thing I will add is that a single edge tool can only ever be as sharp as the back is flat.

This may be a little misleading or badly worded. The back of a chisel does not need to be flat to be razor sharp. All you really need is for the leading edge of the back and the bevel to be well polished. Chisel and plane edges are serrated and the finer you polish them the smaller the serrations become helping to maintain a sharp edge longer. While having a flat back is very helpful for paring things flat, it is unnecessary for cutting rebates or say, shaping the end of a brace and is not necessary on plane blades. Some quality chisels are not flat on the back, they are hollow ground so that you basically just have to wipe the back to polish the leading edge and not have to polish the whole back.

Jim

[Kim]

I agree that you don't 'need' to have the back flat to have a sharp edge Jim, an example is the Japanese style of chisel so perhaps my wording was bad.

However for me, in relation to bench work with bench chisels, which is all I really do these days and what I imagined the OP was inquiring about, I feel the flatness of the back is best established for the long term to form a datum as those tools required to efficiently and consistently maintain the polish of the edge from the bevel side are always conveniently at hand. The point I make here once again is that conservation of good tool steel is important to me so I use a jig to ensure little waste.

That said I agree that the only point of importance as far as the keenness of the edge itself is concerned is the fineness of the polish where front meets back. But when you are trying to project this into the minds eye of those who may not have this realization for themselves through lack of experience, sometimes it is the bad wording that brings the required focus for them to form their own picture.

Cheers

Kim

[kiwigeo]

As for guides, I find the Varitas Mk2 is pretty hard to beat but must add that I had to return the first one I bought as it put an unwanted skew on the blade once the brass selector was switched to the micro bevel position. I believe this fault is not all that uncommon and was even apparent in the replacement to a lesser degree. But with attention being paid to apply a mild bias to counteract the skew, the jig works very well indeed. For a cheaper yet very reliable alternative you cannot go past the Eclipse IMHO.

Cheers

Kim

So it's not just me.....I've had the same problem with my Mk2 for many years now.

[DarwinStrings]

You are not the only two, I have read a few complaints about those honing guides. I have a El Cheapo bunnies copy of a Eclipe that I got out of their "$3 bin" once and prefer that style of guide.

Sure Kim and it is obvious you are very proud of your tools as I am. I guess I felt your post gave the impression that you have to go to as much effort as you did on that chisel to get a good sharp chisel. Also If someone happens to purchase a chisel that has a hollow back (I had a set of Marples blue chip like that, very fast to tune) then it would be a bit unnecessary to spend time flattening the back. So I felt the need to add and or explain further what you had said.

Jeremy the Woodworks book and tool company in Sydney have Sorby paring chisels if you want something new but they are about $100-$120 each. If you buy second hand I would add to what Kim has said and make sure you see a photo of the back so you can see if it is rust pitted if you don't want to spend too much time tuning it up.

Jim

Edit. I forgot to add Jeremy that sometimes you find paring chisels described as pattern makers chisels if you are searching.

[Jeremy D]

Thanks a lot guys. I have a couple in my evilbay watch list .

I am looking to order my wood this week, very excited.

[Jeremy D]

Hi Guys,

Just an update. I received my wood order today. Below is a pic (badly taken with my phone). There are 250mm splits in the sides from the end. I have contacted the seller so hopefully I will get replacements. It also got a bit wet and there is a water stain on the neck blank. This should come out with sanding? Thanks for looking



EDIT: BTW it is Engleman spruce top and bracewood, EIR back and sides, Hog neck, ebony and maple headstock veneers, ebony bridge and fretboard. I also got a few practice sides and backs which seem to be Hog and some other unidentified stuff .

[Kim]

Geez Jeremy,

Forget about the rosewood mate....grab ur saw and get stuck into that bench seat...I'll have a set from the right hand end of the plank thanks...some nice figure going on there

Cheers

Kim

[Jeremy D]

Haha good call!

Geez Jeremy,

Forget about the rosewood mate....grab ur saw and get stuck into that bench seat...I'll have a set from the right hand end of the plank thanks...some nice figure going on there

Cheers

Kim

[kiwigeo]

It also got a bit wet and there is a water stain on the neck blank. This should come out with sanding? Thanks for looking

If your heel block is coming off that neck blank then just organise glue up of the heel block sections so water stain is not showing. Alternately organise it so the stained surface is upper surface of headstock and will get covered by headstock veneer.

[Tod Gilding]

Welcome Jeremy, As Puff said "To The cookoo's nest " I'm on my L plates also and have found here at this forum a lot of talented Luthiers that can answer any question you have and all friendly , Just jump in and ask anything you want to know and one of these guru's will have a genuine no Bull #%@It Answer for you, I hope your first build goes well.

Tod

[Jeremy D]

Thanks for the advice Tod and Martin.

Peter from RC has been very good about the split sides. I am now really happy that I went with a sponsor

[Puff]

If the stuff got wet in transit resulting in the water stain, and quite possibly the splits, tis a bit of a tuff call on the vendor to sort replacement. That should be on the carrier.

[Jeremy D]

If the stuff got wet in transit resulting in the water stain, and quite possibly the splits, tis a bit of a tuff call on the vendor to sort replacement. That should be on the carrier.

Hi Puff,

I dont think the water caused the splits. All the wood was well wraped with cling film and the neck seemed to be the only thing the got a little water past it. The splits were actually at the other dry end of the package so I dont think they were related. I did not mentioned the neck to RC becuase I dont think it was their fault and it is still very usable.