Joining Question

[woodrat]

Where is Hesh by the way? I have missed his posts!

[Dominic]

Stu, while the bevel up jointer looks the goods it is designed to use the fence as seen in the pic. It does not have a fully machined side face and so won't run on a shooting board properly. As a jointer it is meant to be used on the bottom face with the fence on the side face (at 90 degrees) Have a look at the other pics on Lee Valley web site. You can see the machined surface on the side faces do not extend the full height or length of the body.

I have the Veritas #6 fore plane for shooting and it works great and also a HT Gordon Trying plane. Both are beautiful tools and create effortless jointed tops and backs once you learn how to steer them.
Also, if you are going to buy one of these, go to Lee Valley, you will save at least 100 bucks over Carbatec once postage is factored in. Enough to get a couple of spare blades and sharpening stones.

Good luck.
Dom

[needsmorecowbel]

I only go to carbatec for those CMT router (bright orange) bits...but cheers for the tip and the #6 looks like it will do a stunning job for alot less money too.

Stu

[Pete Brown]

Also, if you are going to buy one of these, go to Lee Valley, you will save at least 100 bucks over Carbatec once postage is factored in

Given the strong Aussie dollar, I still scratch my head when I compare local prices against the identical tools sourced from overseas.

I can certainly back up Dominic's statement. In fact, I took delivery of a couple of Veritas hand planes today - a #4 smoother and a low angle jack plane - and even factoring in horrendous freight charges from Canada, I'd be around $200 worse off had I bought them from Carbatec here in Perth. I'd like to support local retailers, but not that much!

Cheers
Pete

[needsmorecowbel]

It is a bit silly really...Lee Valley only comes in at a few dollars cheaper for me on this one i think...as the shipping will probably be 40-60...will keep shopping around

[tim mullin]

I imagine Titebond would be sufficient a glue to glue the plates together with...I have 2 bottles of the stuff that i bought new but they have a fairly pungent odor of PVA which i always thought was a sign that it had gone off. Please correct me if i am wrong about that.

There is a code stamped on the bottle in black, dot-matrix characters. Tell us what that full code is and I'll show you how to decode it, including the date of manufacture.

[Dominic]

Stu, the Lee Valley #6 is $265, from CT it is $409. Even with 40 or 50 dollar postage (about right compared to my recent purchases) you are miles better off.
Dom

[joolstacho]

Joining plates... I use QUOINS (good scrabble word!). -Really useful for many clamping/holding jobs. These things are used by printers, they're small metal blocks about 35mm x 15mm x15mm, and with the use of a square key they expand a few mm in one direction. So you just set up your glued plates against a ledge, then a few quoins against another ledge along the other edge and expand 'em to get the pressure just right. Too easy. I also use them for holding fretboards when machining/thicknessing. Scrounge a few from a printing company.
-Jools

[christian]

Hi guys,

For what its worth I've been using an aliphatic for the last 3 years made by Holdfast called Bond it on.
not sure if you can get it in Aus but its certainly the best glue I've ever used and I've tried plenty,
and can highly recommend it.
Can't say ive ever joined a top with tape, my joiner instincts just dont trust it haha.
I use a pretty simple jig a flat MDF base with strip of packing tape down the middle,one glued solid timber fence and a fully adjustable fence on the other edge that tensions the glue plates until dry.

cheers,

Christian.

[Pete Brown]

I use a pretty simple jig a flat MDF base with strip of packing tape down the middle,one glued solid timber fence and a fully adjustable fence on the other edge that tensions the glue plates until dry

This jig works for me - a variation on Christian's I'm guessing. The underside of the blocks is faced with 80-grit sandpaper to minimise slippage after the wing nuts are tightened and the wedges are tapped home.

jig.jpg (157.89 KiB) Viewed 11067 times

It comes in handy for other jobs too, such as gluing fingerboard bindings.

Cheers
Pete

[needsmorecowbel]

Sorry Tim the codes are as follows:

A002030047
A007210031

[tim mullin]

Sorry Tim the codes are as follows:

A002030047
A007210031

Titebond changed to this coding sometime in 2009. The "A" refers to manufacturing location (America). First 5 digits are the date of manufacture, so "00203" is 2010-02-03 and "00721" is 2010-07-21". The last 4 digits are the batch number.

Neither of these should have an objectionable odour, if they've been stored in a cool, dry, dark place. How long to keep the stuff?? I use a cut-off of 18 months: anything older than that gets used only for jigs and general shop use.

T

[needsmorecowbel]

Cheers for that Tim.. sorry for the late reply I didn't see your post

Stu