sound hole binding

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liam_fnq
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sound hole binding

Post by liam_fnq » Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:15 pm

We need to get back to the main business here folks so here we go.

I've tried binding a few sound holes but over time I'm noticing some separation from the top. I take some BWB purf and bend it on the hot pipe. Then I cut it to length with a 45 degree at the ends. When the ends meet under the fingerboard I can use them as a wedge to clamp the binding to the soundhole edge. HHG. This is on Ukes.

Thing is, I've notice a few small gaps after a few days.

Is there any way to get a better even clamping pressure. I'm thinking of somehow to use a balloon or a piece of slotted pipe bigger than the hole.

Any thoughts?

Liam

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Allen
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Re: sound hole bindind

Post by Allen » Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:55 pm

There was a post some time back (could be fairly recent since we lost so much data :twisted: ) that showed a tapered drinking glass used as a wedge to apply clamping pressure.

I've just done one and used SM brown binding tape to pull it tight to the sound hole. After a week it seems fine.

I'm thinking that there is also the possibility of using something like rubber that is fairly flexible and close to the correct diameter, A hole drilled trough the center and a bolt with a washer and nut to compress the rubber, thus forcing it to a larger diameter. Much like the drums on my bobbin sander work to hold the sandpaper sleeves firm.
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Kim
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Re: sound hole bindind

Post by Kim » Fri Oct 15, 2010 7:02 pm

As you suggest a piece of PVC pipe with a slot cut so it can be squeezed together and lapped inside itself should do the trick just fine Liam. You could then use a bladder inside of that to increase pressure if need be.

Cheers

Kim

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Craig
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Re: sound hole bindind

Post by Craig » Fri Oct 15, 2010 7:03 pm

G'day Liam,

My method is to inlay the binding into the soundboard before cutting out the soundhole.

Leave the soundboard a little thicker than you require .Route a slot which doesn't quite reach the full thickness of the soundboard and glue the binding in. When dry , thickness the underside of the soundboard to expose the binding channel . Cut out the soundhole and you're done .
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Craig
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Re: sound hole bindind

Post by Craig » Fri Oct 15, 2010 7:35 pm

Forgot to mention , I bent the Mahogany binding ( 3 mm. ) on my hot pipe prior to installing
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Allen
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Re: sound hole bindind

Post by Allen » Fri Oct 15, 2010 7:36 pm

I've got nothing......Just look at Craig's. He's the guru. :cl
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Steve
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Re: sound hole bindind

Post by Steve » Fri Oct 15, 2010 8:22 pm

Craig - what sort of timber is your soundboard made from? It looks spectacular.
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Craig
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Re: sound hole bindind

Post by Craig » Fri Oct 15, 2010 9:03 pm

Thanks Allen .

Steve , it's Sitka Spruce . A really nice well quartered piece. The whole board is covered in that 'silking '. It's exceptional

I bought the back and sides as Pommele figured African Mahogany and used it also for bindings , purflings and rosette etc.
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Nick
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Re: sound hole binding

Post by Nick » Sat Oct 16, 2010 8:52 am

:oops: :oops: Not even going to show mine after Craigs one :oops: :oops:
Nice method Craig, I may have to have a go at it as the channel would definitely hold everything tight whilst the glue drys! I've just done a tapered end with mine & a little 'extra' help from binding tape if I see any small gaps or lack of glue squeeze out.
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liam_fnq
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Re: sound hole binding

Post by liam_fnq » Sat Oct 16, 2010 1:55 pm

Craig that's an idiot proof method for sure. thanks mate.

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Mark McLean
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Re: sound hole binding

Post by Mark McLean » Mon Oct 18, 2010 6:15 am

Craig's method seems like a great idea.

But if you have already cut out the soundhole, here is a video tute from Nigel Forster that I found helpful. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9f_t-wGo ... re=related

If you want to clamp it in the hole look for something conical to jam in there and apply expanding pressure. My kids had some plastic cones that they used for soccer training (like the ones at roadworks, but a bit smaller). That was just the right diameter to jam in, and titebond doesn't stick to the plastic.

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Craig
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Re: sound hole binding

Post by Craig » Mon Oct 18, 2010 8:14 am

Thanks for that link Mark . Yes I'm sure that method works well too. Might also be handy should you want to make your soundhole smaller at a later date (lower the resonance )
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Stephen Kinnaird
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Re: sound hole binding

Post by Stephen Kinnaird » Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:40 pm

Craig, I'm with the other Steve--wow, that's a beautiful piece of Sitka.
And your s/h binding trick is quite clever.
(Wouldn't have thought anything else of ya.)

Steve
There are some great woods, down under!

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Craig
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Re: sound hole binding

Post by Craig » Mon Oct 18, 2010 10:06 pm

G'day Steve . ,,,It's been a while . Yep I sure got lucky with the Spruce. I've struck 'silking' with Sitka before , but never to this degree . I'm told it's got a lot to do with it being cut perfectly on the quarter , but I gotta feeling there's a bit more to it than that.
Onya Steve
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Stephen Kinnaird
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Re: sound hole binding

Post by Stephen Kinnaird » Tue Oct 19, 2010 2:44 am

Craig wrote:G'day Steve . ,,,It's been a while . Yep I sure got lucky with the Spruce. I've struck 'silking' with Sitka before , but never to this degree . I'm told it's got a lot to do with it being cut perfectly on the quarter , but I gotta feeling there's a bit more to it than that.
Indeed there IS! Has to be cut on a new moon (in the winter), has to be from a tree on the north face of the slope, must be from 200' elevation or more, must be from a mixed species forest. (And if a guy named Horst cut it, that doesn't hurt.)

I've only seen two tops that came close to the one you picture, but still yours spanks 'em.
Be sure and double the price on that guitar!

Steve
There are some great woods, down under!

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Craig
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Re: sound hole binding

Post by Craig » Tue Oct 19, 2010 8:01 am

Stephen Kinnaird wrote: (And if a guy named Horst cut it, that doesn't hurt.)



Steve
Strange you should mention that ...................

:lol:
Craig Lawrence

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