Table Saws..whats everyone got?

[kiwigeo]

Time to look at table saws...whats everyone running?

Thanks in advance for comments and advice.

[Allen]

I'm running the Jet Super Saw with the sliding table. 10" maximum blade though most of the time I just have a very fine 6" blade on because I hate wasting wood to a wide kerf. It's the USA model with 5/8" arbour and takes a Dado Blade.

I got mine here.http://gpwoodturning.sitesuitestores.co ... 1107398373

The motor is rated at 1 3/4 hp. but that is "Real Horsepower" I believe, because I've had table saws that said they had 3 hp before and they were no comparison this. I can put the 10" blade on and push a 4" thick piece of Qld Walnut through it without the saw bogging down. Good enough for anything I'm going to do with it. I runs just fine on a 10 amp circuit.

There are certainly better saws out there but you have to spend up very big to get into that league, and in all honesty, I don't think that I could justify a better saw than this one for anything that I will be doing in instrument building. It's accurate, well made, and the sliding table is just so bloody handy I couldn't imagine being without it.

I got the mobile base with it. If you plan on getting a heavy saw like this, then do yourself a favour and get the mobile base, I can easily move the saw around the shop. Nearly impossible without it though.

[kiwigeo]

Thanks for the prompt come back Allen. All useful information.

[Paul B]

The carba-tec TSC-10HB is a very popular 10" cabinet saw in oz. It's the same as the Grizzly cabinet saw, comes off the same production line, but the grizzly manual is better and is downloadable, most people get the grizzly manual and use that. They are the same saw.

Carba-tec now have a left tilt version that is marginally better (the CTH-110L)

The first one will cost you about $2k the left tilt version about $2.5K.

I was all set to get one a couple weeks ago, had approval from the missus and money in the bank. But then I got canned at work and....Shit, I've waited ten years to get one what's another year or two.

[Dominic]

Hey Martin, I have the MBS-300 1PH from CT ($2695). It is a 12" blade saw with a heavy frame and table that runs very smooth with no vibration. It has full size twin mitre slots on either side of the blade for more accurate and a great fence. It is a big 3Hp motor and I need to run it on a separate line if I use my dust collector at the same time but most saws should have a dedicated power line anyway. It comes with a 30mm arbor but I also got a 5/8 one so i can run any blade including full size dado blades.

More importantly it has a true rivving knife (as opposed to a simple splitter) which rises and falls and tilts with the blade. In Europe it is illegal to sell T-saws without true rivving knifes for safety reasons and the US is also going to make it mandatory in a couple of years. So find one with a true rivving knife if you can.

I bought a great book from Taunton press "Complete Illustrated Guide to Tables Saws" which was brilliant as far as selecting the best saw for your needs and importantly using it safely. TS’s are potentially the most dangerous tools in the woodwork shop. Has lots of great jigs and other accessories you can make or buy and teaches you how to make a wide range of cuts safely and accurately. Best $30 on workshop books I have spent.

Cheers
Dom

[jeffhigh]

Mine is more a breakfast tray saw
The mighty Durden junior jointer
40 years old, no tilt, no tracks but it cuts and it only cost me $50

[woodrat]

Martin, I have a Jet 10 inch contractor saw with the cast iron wings thankfully and not the light pressed steel ones. Its adequate but the arbor flaps around a bit and it can bind and stall when ripping heavy stock. I would love an old vintage Wadkin or Unisaw with really heavy duty gear inside like triple belt drive and 3hp. Now I am only making instruments I really dont need a tilt arbor so an old non tilt would be beaut. I love old iron.

[Taffy Evans]

I use a 10" saw from Ledacraft in Adelaide. I saw it in their showroom and ordered it when I got back to N Queensland. I'm very happy. Check out their website.

[peter.coombe]

Mine is an old Durden Pacemaker. 2HP motor. Probably over 40 years old but built like a tank. Cast iron, weighs a ton, took 2 of us to move. Bought second hand 15 years ago. After regreasing the bearing and a good clean up has been running smooth and accurate and trouble free ever since.

[Kim]

I have a very old Aussie made Gilbro 10", probably form the 40's or 50's. The trunnion is a triple bearing unshakable monster, its as stable as a rock. The fence is a simple bit of well machined 7/8" thick cast that is around 3" tall, its heavy. The cast table is very small at just 16" wide x 23" long and has a pair of standard 3/4" mitre slots either side of the business. It has a crude overhead blade guard that incorporates a splitter, its a shit to fit and gets in the way so is seldom used . The saw also has a 4 way mitre slotted cast outboard for use with a mortising bit that is meant to run from the end of the arbor, that is the only original bit I don't have but I don't miss it either. The original motor was a 3/4hp clunker. It had to be manually oiled via a couple of extension tubes and had so much endfloat in the shaft that if you fitted a spindle in place of the drive pulley it would have made a great oscillating sander. The motor was changed out to a semi modern Aussie made true 2hp that has enough grunt to cut through 'anything at full cut.

The rise and fall is operated via smooth rack and pinion of the same robust build quality as the trunnion. The table tilts and accurately returns perfectly to 90 degree without issue which means you can actual use this feature and enjoy it instead of it becoming a point of frustration which sees you chasing your tail trying to get a square cut. In fact the saw is so rigid and true that I can rip 8" of Jarrah by simply flipping the board and the only tell tale ridge if any can be quickly sanded out.

Yes I guess she is a dangerous little girl, but I do love her because she is small, powerful, accurate and reliable and there is always a way to get around any short comings if the saw has those things going for it.

One thing I will add. Regardless of 'which' saw you are currently running, if it has standard "V" belts it's performance will be improved remarkably by simply changing out the originals for Fenner Drives 'Power Twist Link Belts'.

link belt.jpg (24.07 KiB) Viewed 26160 times

http://www.fennerdrives.com/high_perfor ... bgodFxk1DA

They can be found locally but you will pay far too much. Buy them off ebay in the USA. This guy is good for link belts and urethane tyres for your bandsaw: http://stores.ebay.com/SULPHUR-GROVE-TOOL The 4' length of 1/2" "A" profile @ $26 USD per length will fit most machines. If you need longer you can by 2 x 4' lengths and simply joint the links in as required cause it only takes a second and no tools are required. If you need lots more you can even buy full rolls of the stuff but that would be Xie..

These belts are quicker to fit than traditional belts and can be quickly adjusted to fit any machine in seconds just as long as you buy the correct pulley profile. These belts last longer than traditional belts because of reduced friction, and most importantly, because each link rides over the pulley, the vibration normally generated by a standard "V" belts because of 'belt whip' that is created by 'belt memory', is dramatically reduced. This is because each link conforms to the radius of the pulley even when the machine is not in use and therefore there is no memory to contend with resulting in the machine, be it a tablesaw, drillpress, or what ever it is that is being driven by a belt, will start smoother, operate smoother, and in the case of a TS with improve the quality of cut.

Cheers

Kim

[DarwinStrings]

As you posted this a while ago Martin I am wondering if you bought a saw yet?

I can't answer your question as I don't have a table saw, I do miss one as they are so handy. I had a nice Italian 3m panel saw but if I put it in this shed there would be no place for a chair.

Jim

[Kim]

The OP may be old but my post re the link belts is very relevant to anyone with a TS, try it you'll like it.

[woodrat]

Thanks Kim for reminding me about those belt links. I wanted to buy them years ago but didnt get around to it (read AU dollar = 60 US cents) but now I would like to revisit that situation (read AU dollar = 99 US cents)

John

[xray]

Ive got a carb a tec 12 inch saw. They are not too bad and have a 2hp motor which is plenty for most wood. Ive just cut flooded gum and some red gum on it like butter. Also tool king stock 35 dollar blades which are so much better than the originals and makita blades i have run previously. Hard to believe but true. I think if you are using it for furnature get a sliding table for straighter cuts.

[Stu]

This post certainly came at the right time I'm still making my mind on 10" or 12"

A question to those with a 10" saw if I may................

Have you ever regretted not getting a larger 12" saw at all ? Just want to make sure I don't find myself suffering size envy/regret if I get a 10"

[Kim]

Have you ever regretted not getting a larger 12" saw at all ?

Nope.

[Allen]

This post certainly came at the right time I'm still making my mind on 10" or 12"

A question to those with a 10" saw if I may................

Have you ever regretted not getting a larger 12" saw at all ? Just want to make sure I don't find myself suffering size envy/regret if I get a 10"

For my work, 10" is all that I need. In fact for lutherie it's more than necessary most of the tim. I put a 6" thin kerf blade on so not to waist valuable wood as dust and only swap it out to another blade when its required. The smaller blades are usually a lot less expensive that the big diameter ones as well.

[kiwinoz62]

Hi,
all I've got is a Triton work station, but it seems to work Ok for now.
I envy you guys with the nice equipment you've all got, just gotta save to buy one.

[kiwigeo]

I ended up getting a second hand Jet 10" machine. Had to buy a couple of minor parts and got to experience the abysmal service from Jet Australia......the Jet machinery is good but I would be hesitant to buy Jet again because of the poor backup service.

[peter.coombe]

Have you ever regretted not getting a larger 12" saw at all ?

Not at all, those big saws are scary dangerous. A saw bench is probably the most dangerous power tool you will buy, so treat it with the greatest respect. My Durden came with a 9" blade and I have replaced that with a 7" narrow kerf blade, but mostly it has the 6" SM fret cutting saw in it. I seriously don't like using that 9" blade.

[DarwinStrings]

I ended up getting a second hand Jet 10" machine. Had to buy a couple of minor parts and got to experience the abysmal service from Jet Australia......the Jet machinery is good but I would be hesitant to buy Jet again because of the poor backup service.

I have my fingers crossed (knowing your view) at the moment Martin as I am about to experience for the first time the backup/warranty service of Carbatec Adelaide. The top guide on the 17 inch bandsaw I just bought is not quite right, the bearings are not parallel. That is to say that the bearings touch the blade at the back but are open by about 3/4 of a mill at the front (quite a large angle considering the bearings are about 10mm wide), it still cuts well as I have been using it but I have to send the guide back. I was hoping they would take my word for it on the phone and just send me a new block, no such luck though as they are sticking to the "back to base" warranty, lucky I don't have to send the whole machine back. Anyway fingers crossed in hope that it is a minor hiccup and all will go well.

Jim

[Kim]

If anyone has a contractor saw and wants a smoother cut, it may well be worth your while to contact these people to see if they will ship to AU.

http://www.in-lineindustries.com/performance_pack.html

Looks like the perfect upgrade kit.

Cheers

Kim