Polishing Frets

[Hesh1956]

I am wondering how folks polish their frets. I have been just using progressively finer grits of sandpaper finishing up with Micro-Mesh pads and getting decent results. It does take a while though...

I read that a number of builders are using these wheels from Stew-Mac and I just ordered a set.





I am curious to know if anyone has any experience with these wheels from Stew-Mac and any tips or tricks that you would like to share. And as mentioned I am also interested in hearing what does work for you even if you don't use these things.

Thanks

[Joe Sustaire]

Yeah Hesh, I just use the extra fine ones to polish up, I've heard the other one was too course but haven't tried it myself. And I use the little metal slotted templates to protect the fretboard cause the wheel does want to jump off the fret sometimes.

Joe

[Allen]

I've had good results by using my large foam buffing pad in my drill press and using the residual buffing compound in the pad to go over the frets after sanding them up to P800. Very fast and effective.

[Kim]

I use wet and dry to 600 then a dremel fitted with a standard cheap felt wheel loaded with green micro honing compound for outstanding results in a few seconds...really.

Just be sure to tape up and use a stainless steel fretboard protector.

Cheers

Kim

[Stu]

I tried the Stewmac wheels a few years back and haven't used them since.
I found them too slow and cumbersome.

I'm doing the same method similar to Allen but using an Automotive buffer/polisher and buff pad. I use an old , worn buff pad which gets pulled out for this purpose alone. I won't be going back to the stewmac method in a hurry.


cheers, Stu

[Bob Connor]

I progress through grits of wet and dry and them give them a final rub with an old set of micromesh pads.

[jb2060]

I use Micromesh touch up sticks fom stewmac and they work a treat. The shape and padding makes it easy to hold and push along the fret. 3 grits in one stick. I count how many times I push along each fret to ensure I don't make them uneven. The finest grit really brings up a nice shine. You can also use these things to fine sand/polish the fretboard.

The good thing is if you run out, you can raid your wife's nail buffers. Don't get caught though

cheers, Jason

[Nick]

I've always done them by hand, 600 grit onto a 1200 then finished them with OOOO grade steel wool. Last couple of guitars tho, having Ebony boards, I've taken a leaf from Bob Benedetto's DVD and after the 1200 just buffed the whole lot with a wheel I have solely for this purpose (it sure does get black in a hurry!) using the brown compound, not only brings the frets up real shiny but gives the Ebony a nice shine too.
I won't be buffing my latest though although it has an Ebony board but is bound with curly Maple so unless I want that looking all black & dirty it won't be getting close to the buffer. I've also had a go (for the first time) at using the gold EVO wire LMI sell so I'd want to do them by hand for the first time at least, just to get familiar with the stuff and to get a feel for it.

[Kim]

You will be happy with EVO Nick, it has a warm glow to it rather than being a 'in your face' gold colour. In fact when first buffed it is difficult to see any real difference from nickel unless side by side but it does oxidise to a richer gold. It is harder than nickel, yet not so hard as stainless which can dramatically shorten the life of your tools. I would say it offers the best of both worlds for wear and workability and is a no brainer with gold tuners.

As for buffing frets, like i said i use the elcheap'o felt wheels in the dremel because unlike the stewmac jobs, they are softer and conform to the fret realy well. Charged with micro fine green honing compound the frets come up brighter than 12000 micromesh and it takes all of 3 seconds to do each fret once they have been crowned and taken to 600 wet and dry.

Cheers

Kim