My First Build a Weissborn

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Tigermyrtle

My First Build a Weissborn

Post by Tigermyrtle » Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:55 pm

Well I might start by asking a few questions.
I have decided after a few years of thinking about it, to now have a go at building my first string instrument.
And I have picked a Weissenborn as I just love the sound that comes from this instrument, I have picked out my timber that I showed to Rick Turner today, who has just finished another Mandolin building course down here in sunny Tasmania and he reckons I made a good choice.
As the headstock has no effect on the tone of the instrument, I will use a piece of pure musk burl I have had put away for years. Back & sides plus sound board fiddleback blackwood that I have had air drying for 12 years.
I loved the look of myrtle that Alan- ozziebluesman used for fingerboard and bridge on his blackhearted sassafras Weissenborn, but I have not decided on this yet, I will dress a few pieces of she oak and myrtle Etc before I get to this stage.
I am doing a lot of internet reasearch working out style of Weissenborn that I will build, I found one guy who built one a little longer and deeper than a standard Weisenborn and wonder what advantage this would have.?
Any idea from Alan or anyone else in the forum that has built one would be much appreciated.
Cheers Bob

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ozziebluesman
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Post by ozziebluesman » Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:19 pm

G'day Bob,

My blackwood weissenborn copy was 15mm deeper than the sassafrass guitar with was built as per the plan. I didn't hear any volume or superior tone advantages. I do believe that the tone of the blackwood guitar is much closer to the original tone of Herman's guitars than the sassafrass guitar. Sassafrass is much softer and lighter in weight than blackwood. The sassarfrass tone right from first string up was big and warm. The blackwood tone was a much brighter softer tone still with nice clear bottom end. I reckon the blackwood guitar needed to be played in and it would open up into something special.

Here is a pic of the blackwood guitar.
Image
Cheers
Alan
"Play to express, not to impress"

Alan Hamley

http://www.hamleyfineguitars.com/

Tigermyrtle

My First Build a Weissenborn

Post by Tigermyrtle » Tue Sep 08, 2009 8:35 am

Hi Alan, I like both weissenborns you built but like you, I believe the blackwood will open up more with time.
I liked the choice of blackhearted sassafras you chose, with not too much blackheart it looks good. There is a guy here in Hobart that builds Weissenborns I might try and visit him soon.
Cheers Bob

Tigermyrtle

My First Build a Weissenborn

Post by Tigermyrtle » Sun Sep 13, 2009 11:07 am

Photo Billets for resawing for Weissenborn build.
Regards Bob
Image

Tigermyrtle

My First Build a Weissenborn

Post by Tigermyrtle » Sat Oct 17, 2009 8:01 pm

Well I have finally managed to resaw my sets for my weissenborn build.
I must say I love the idea of Rick turner audience sound port, a built in tuner, hipshot D-tuners on the highest & lowest strings.
and a D-Tar wavelength multisource pickup.
Just a thought there is a long way to go yet.
Regards Bob.
Image

Tigermyrtle

My First Build a Weissenborn

Post by Tigermyrtle » Sat Oct 17, 2009 8:42 pm

Metho wiped on sets to bring out colour.
Now correct me if I am wrong a few posted in the Soundboard thread not to use figured for the soundboard, now if I decide to go ahead with rick's idea using built in tuner plus D-Tar wavelength multisource pickup.
it will be ok to use figured.
Attached photo left hand side sides for my build.
Regards Bob.

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Post by Rick Turner » Sun Oct 18, 2009 1:22 am

The first real trick is doing the centerseam glue joint on the top and the back. It's a bit more difficult with a Weissenborn-style instrument given the length of the seam, but with patience and a well tuned plane you can do it. There are some interesting designs for shooting boards where the workpiece(s) are held secure on a ramped "table" so as you shoot the plane along, you're using the full width of the iron, not just a small section.

The other trick is to get it close and then use a length of sticky backed sandpaper laid down on a good long dead flat surface. I use the table of my pin router. Then you clamp a vertical fence right over the strip of sandpaper, and carefully work the glue line surfaces, checking frequently for gaps.

A strip of marquetry down the back certainly helps hide any minor imperfections. Maybe that's why I rarely put them in the backs of my guitars!
Rick Turner
Guitar Maker, Experimenter, Diviner
www.renaissanceguitars.com
www.d-tar.com

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