Project PIG the F1-11 'Matey'

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Project PIG the F1-11 'Matey'

Post by Kim » Tue Aug 18, 2009 4:12 pm

Stand back folk's, this ain't gonna be pretty :lol:

This guitar has been haunting me for years. It's been sitting around jumping up every now and again like some hideous jack-in-the-box so it came time to either ditch it in the ebay as a train wreck, or do something with it.

The Maker

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The label

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(Best available?) I suppose so just as long as you didn't go looking around too hard) as you can see the model is a Maton F11, which was an instrument marketed as a steel string folk guitar.

Between 1971 and 73, Maton released a total of 1665 of these most of which would probably have ended up in land fill by now. I say this because the F11 looks to be no more than a cheaply converted Maton F10 and these guitars with their 'heelless', 12 fret to the body neck and all 'acoustic' plywood construction, were Maton's cheapest student grade classical guitar at the time.

No doubt the F11 was only ever intended to be a low end grab at the then very popular 'folk' guitar market, but IMHO, Maton really should have done a little more to support their otherwise good reputation. Simply exchanging the neck of their cheapest classical for one fitted with steel string tuners and not even bothering to visit the bracing was lazy and perhaps a little deceptive because it should have been clearly understood that these things where never going to hold up for very long under the tension of steel strings.

Having said that, we do need to be fair and keep in mind that the F11 was made to a price point of just $70.00 and I guess in the early 70's, when even Japan was fairly new to the guitar market, $70.00 was cheap even for a plywood guitar. Anyhow back to the patient. The serial number on the label tells us that this guitar was No 1533 of the total 1665 that were made and "(973)" tells us that the guitar was manufactured some time in September of 1973.

I picked this guitar up at a swapmeet many years ago, way before I ever had anything to do with repairing them. I had found it piled into a box of junk with the 'dog chewed neck' separated from the body and bent like a banana. A glob of epoxy filled a hole in the top at the back end of the lower bout and a couple of popped braces and splits through the painted on bindings at the seam of the waist and back where someone had sat on it gave some idea of how this guitar had been treated and to complete the picture, the finished looked like it had road rash after being thrown from a speeding motorcycle. So all in all, for an F11, she was in pretty good shape. :roll:

As you would imagine, I paid very little for it and only bothered because I knew Maton was an Australian brand and thought it would make an interesting wall hanging. As it turned out my wife later expressed an interest in learning guitar, but the steel string I was using was too hard on her fingers. So I gave the F11 to a repairer with instructions to only secure the neck and make the guitar playable and that's what he did all be it with a very high action.

By the time I got the guitar back in about 2 weeks, my wife had lost interest in learning so the F11 then spent a short time as a jamming axe strung up with extra light Thomastics. Each time I pulled the guitar out of the cupboard when ever a mate would drop in for a beer and a jam, I would notice how the action was getting a little higher and over the course of a couple of short years, the guitar had once again become unplayable (see what I mean about land fill :lol:) so the F11 was again relegated to the status of wall hanging.

Forward a few years and by this time I had undertaken a few basic repairs on electric guitars for friends. One day whilst fooling around in the shed I came across the old F11. Not wanting to spend money on it again just to watch it fold up I was none the less curious whether or not it could be made into a player. I figured that I may as well pull it apart and have a look to see for myself if it can be fixed properly. I removed the 'glued in' neck tenon from the mortise (no easy task) and cut the ply top off being careful not to damage the sides. I then took one quick look inside, decided it was a pile of crap not worth of the effort, and put the whole mess away. But, that little investigation did spark an interest in me to learn more about acoustic guitars.

Forward a couple more years and by this time I had a few more repairs under my belt and a better understanding of acoustic guitar construction. Every now and then I would catch sight of the old F11 and sometimes even fiddle around with the bits toying with the idea of putting it back together. Then I would quickly come to my senses and throw the lot back in the box and walking away shaking my head and thinking how wise I had been to do that last time. I kept doing that same thing for a few more years every time it caught my eye and finally, here we are today.

This little guitar has gotten to me for long enough, so I have finally decided I'm going to put the little bastard back together and hopefully, make a reliable player of it for the first time in its 36 years. Why? Because I reckon it will be an interesting challenge even though it probably will end up being more work than just building a guitar from scratch. Besides I figure so many of these $70.00 beaters have been smashed to bits in frustration by young rock wannabies that out of the 1665 that were made, it is very likely that this is one of the only F11 left in existence. But on that point, lets not get too caught up in any historical value debate, this was always a clunker and there is just no point in restoring it to be the lemon it had been from the day it was conceived. So the plan is simple, to keep the 'general' look and feel of an F11, but at the same time make it worth while picking up to play.

Despite the fact the most 'simple' fix would probably be to add a heel to the neck shaft and then bolt the neck to the body through a modified neck block so it goes together much like a standard acoustic M&T joint, if I am to retain that F11 look, then certain key elements of the original will need to be retained. So the 'heelless' neck construction will need to stay and this coupled with the original headstock, logo, label and back bracing should be enough to achieve what I am after.

First problem is that the original design relied heavily on the strength and resilience of the plywood top to hold things together and yet it still failed when fitted with steel strings. I will be replacing the ply with acoustically superior, yet structurally inferior solid spruce. To address this problem a few internal design elements will need to be changed. As I see it, in order to compensate for the loss of strength once offered by the ply and increase the structural integrity sufficiently to overcome the original design short comings, I will need to increase the strength and stiffness around the neck block, upper bout and UTB area, but would need to do so without building in too much extra weight.

With this in mind, I plan to use carbon fibre in this old guitar. This is a material closely associated with formular1 (F1) and aerospace technology, so this little project guitar is a hybrid (F1) of sorts and shall be named in honour of the aging fighter jet now almost retired from the RAAF, the F1-11 which, in a strange coincidence is fondly known throughout the defence department as 'The Pig'.
Last edited by Kim on Sat Oct 03, 2009 8:45 pm, edited 11 times in total.

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Post by Kim » Tue Aug 18, 2009 4:15 pm

OK, on with the rebuild, this image shows all the bits and pieces together.

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Here is the top, you can see the glob of epoxy at the bottom right and the nice green rosette transfer.

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Interesting brace lay out :?

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These next few images demonstrate why this guitar was never going to handle steel strings for very long. (Note the teeth marks in the neck!) The mortised block which accepts the neck tenon is glued to the back of the neck block.

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The idea is that the neck tenon will slide 'through' the neck block and mortised extension and into a second mortise cut in the hardwood (Durian) upper transverse brace.

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The underside of the top is first glued down onto thin solid linings and the upper edges of the mortised block to lock everything in place and then the neck tenon is glued in. The guitar is then ready for stringing up so that the whole lot can gradually rotate back into the guitar as a single unit to make it unplayable in no time. If this 'was' done at the factory, and I see no evidence to suggest otherwise, I do understand why the holes had been bored into the UTB. It was to allow for quick removal of material to form the mortise that will eventually accept the back of the neck tenon. I have no idea why the hole had to be so big as to render the UTB virtually pointless.

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This next image shows the 'side' of the neck tenon

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In keeping with the holes bored in the UTB, I found the alignment of the 1/2" flat bar used as a truss rod a little hard to explain, must have been a Monday guitar after a good bag on the weekend.

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Here's an image of the fretboard after it was removed, not sure of the timber but I suspect it was from some tropical fruit tree :wink:

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To be continued...................later when I have more images compiled.

Feel free to comment.

Cheers

Kim

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Post by Kim » Tue Aug 18, 2009 5:24 pm

OK, here is a bit closer look at whats going on with the bracing, I am not concerned with the top as it will all be replaced with my own set out.

This is the upper ladder.

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And here we have the waist where the ply has separated due to impact at some point in time.

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And here the back and sides have separated at the waist, the thin solid linings used in this guitar left no room for a binding channel so the bindings are just painted on with black paint.

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Aside from the small glue surface offered by these very thin solid linings not helping to prevent the impact damage we see above, the other problem of course is that they offer little support or stiffness to the sides and this in turn would do little to assist keeping things in shape when under string tension, this would need to be addressed if I wish to keep the neck heelless........

So the plan? Repair the damage to the original back braces and strengthen the sides by increasing the width of the solid linings to allow for bindings to be installed. Strengthen the neck block area to increase the structural integrity of the body to lend support to a planned composite UTB that will be fixed to the upper bout sides and form the main load bearer counteracting string tension. Repair the dog chewed neck and insert a 2 way adjustable truss rod. Couple the neck to a new neck block extension to allow the neck to be fitted via 2 allen bolts so, if ever required, the neck angle can be easily reset in the future without the need for major surgery. Fit a new Lutz spruce top with traditional ringed rosette along the lines of a 32 000 Martin and brace the top for a Martin 'short' scale 13 fret to the body configuration instead of the original 12 but with my own bracing patten. Rub back, bind, fill, re-stain and blend the entire guitar to the headstock and then completely refinish with nitro...... that should do it :D

More to come...........

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Post by Allen » Tue Aug 18, 2009 5:40 pm

Kim you've got too much time on his hands :lol:

It's a bit like a car wreck. You don't want to look. Know that you shouldn't, but will none the less. I'll be back to see what comes of this.
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Post by Kim » Tue Aug 18, 2009 6:16 pm

On to the some constructive stuff...First up the neck, as shown I have separated the fretboard from the neck and popped out the old 'nonadjustable' truss rod, which was a simple piece of flat bar on side, by drilling a hole in the underside of the neck tenon and using a pop rivet to push the flat bar out of its rebate. You can see the end of the pop rivet sticking out of the bottom of the tenon and the truss rod lifted, ready to be removed in one of the images above.

The fretboard surface of the neck was then cleaned up and flattened on a large sanding board.

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Next the off centre slot would need to be re-cut wider, and deeper than original slot so that a fillet of hardwood, in this instance Jarrah as it is what I had laying around, could be glued in to reestablish the integrity of the neck.

I used some ply off-cuts to make a routing template. This was set up to allow for a template follower and fixed in place with double side tap and panel pins.

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The slot was then cut with a lam trimmer and a 1/4" down cut spiral bit.

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After ensuring a clean fit, the Jarrah fillet was glued into place. Here you can see the neck ready for the slot re-cut, the Allied 12 fretter truss rod ready for fitting and also the figured Western Myall (Acacia Sowdenii) fretboard already slotted to scale and ready to go. Beautiful wood that Western Myall but susceptible to worm so I have a few holes that need filling but worth the effort.

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And here is the rod fitted in the neck shaft ready to go. The channel was cut using the same ply off cuts as before just readjusted to ensure a nice tight fit. The rod was then covered with a thin fillet of Jarrah and that part of the job was labeled complete. 8)


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More tomorrow.... :D

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Post by Nick » Tue Aug 18, 2009 6:29 pm

Are you sure you want to change this guitars internals?? You realise that by altering it from original it will void the warranty and could drop thousands off the resale value of this historic guitar from a collector! :shock: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Good luck turning this "Little Ripper" into a better little ripper! :lol: If nothing else you should have fun with this modifier and not worrying about cocking it up :D
I'm only guessing here but that neck pocket looks like a system we used to employ when I was tool & diemaking. If you had an object with square corners that had to sit down inside a pocket (or as we were taught..a nest), such as a square cornered neck, instead of manually squaring up the corner of the pocket we ran the cutter past where the corner will be (usually about the radius of the cutter), the square edge just dropped straight in then. Adding to that I would say they used a large router bit to hog out as much of the neck pocket in the minimal amount of cuts hence the huge diameter of the "overruns" in the transverse brace. Just a guess mind. You would have thought it was easier to put the radius on the end of the neck though ala electrics.
I wonder also if the original "truss rod"(and I use the term loosely) was offset to the treble side because somebody felt that the treble strings would impart more tension to that side of the neck?
Maybe a nice coat of Purple when you've finished Kim? :wink:
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Post by kiwigeo » Tue Aug 18, 2009 6:36 pm

All I can say is Im glad Maton never made jet fighters. Ive seen a few Matons of similar vintage and they really are crap. No wonder the company nearly went under.

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Post by Kim » Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:02 pm

Nick O wrote: Maybe a nice coat of Purple when you've finished Kim? :wink:
Ahh purple, it would match my varicose veins nicely,,, :D

You make some good points about the mortise Nick.

Yes Martin a crap period for the curly "M" indeed.

Anyhow, here is a bit more on that Western Myall fretboard.

This is the jig I built for cutting the radius, I rode motorcycles when younger, sometime on the road but mainly into cars and I have a manky wrist to prove it. So to help me get bar chords a little easier, I use a 12" radius. The strange thing is that most who play instruments I have set up like this comment how much they like the feel...

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Here is the board after installing plain white MOP dots and a cleanup, you can see where I filled the worm holes if you look close but if I catch anyone looking 'that' close at the instrument when it's in their hand, they'll get a thick ear for their troubles. :wink:

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Here's a closeup of the Myall, nice figure huh..

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That's enough for today..stay tuned.

Cheers

Kim

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Post by Allen » Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:21 pm

Beautiful fret board Kim. If you got a stack of that old wormy wood, I'd take it off your hands. :lol:
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Post by Bob Connor » Tue Aug 18, 2009 8:46 pm

'Tis looking good Kim.

That Myall certainly is lovely wood - and a lot denser than Ebony.


I wait with baited breath to see the rest of the reconstruction.
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Post by Dennis Leahy » Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:02 pm

Hey Kim,

That was a nylon string guitar, not a steel string, you silly man!

Classical bridge with tie block, fanned top bracing (reminiscent of Torres after he drank two bottles of tequila), classical rosette/decal, even had an offset truss rod, engineered for higher tension on the nylon treble strings.

Yep, you really cocked this one up!

I would have offered you $5000US for a restored original, but now...

Dennis

p.s. Just pullin' yer chain, of course. Have fun with the Pig, and I am confident it will be thee best sounding Maton F11 that Maton never made. :lol:
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Post by Joe Sustaire » Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:27 pm

What a project Kim! And here for some reason, I'd been thinking you were a fairly bright fellow, and then you go and expose your obviously weak mind to the world like this. :D

Talk about some built-in design flaws, amazing. (Here I was thinking about the Maton, but maybe there are broader implications) That is some great fretboard material and I anxiously await further details of your luthier mis-adventures. :lol:

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Post by John Maddison » Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:40 pm

This has the makings of an 8-page thread :roll: Nice job so far, Kim.
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Post by Paul B » Wed Aug 19, 2009 9:16 am

Looking good Kim.

Are you doing the bridge out of western Myall too? On one of my 000's (that still don't have finish on them yet) I used Myall for fretboard, bridge and headstock veneer. FWIW, the snakewood bridge pins and end pins from stewmac are a perfect colour match with Western Myall - the stuff I used is the same colour as yours.

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Post by Kim » Wed Aug 19, 2009 5:24 pm

Thanks Allen and Bob,

The Western Myall sure is pretty and I wish I could get hold of some that is wide enough for guitar sets. The stuff I have used here is not overly dense for an Aussie arid wood. In fact I would put it on par with dark BRW..yeah, yeah I know, but it's true and it even smells very similar mmmm bubblegum. :D

Dennis, when I finally hit the big time this guitar will still be worth thousands mate only hopefully it will at least be playable.

Joe, there was a time when exposing myself was appreciated by most and applauded by many. Sadly those days are far behind me and now I would just get arrested...................again :lol:

John, an 8 page guitar thread! Sounds like a wonderful idea, got to be more entertaining than sitting around watch'in the teli. I'm not promising anything mind, but it could turn out to be true so stick around.

Paul, yes indeed, a Western Myall bridge it will be mate, I love the stuff.

Right'o,

With the fretboard surface now clean and flat and the truss rod glued in to place and ready to go, it's time to look at fixing up the teeth marks in the back of the neck. These were deep and numerous with many crushed and broken fibers, must have been some wild gig that one. :P

I did not take any photos of the actual process because my hands were a little full at the time, but decided that it was always going to look a little shonky if I just filled them and finished over. So instead, I flipped the neck onto the fretboard surface, and ran the back of the shaft through the Proformax 16-32 thickness sander a few times winding up the drum and dragging the neck back out each time the headstock was about to enter the business end of the machine.

When the worst of the teeth marks had been ground away, I was left with a nice flat surface upon which to glue a back-strap which was fashioned from a nice, but porous piece of Cocobolo original picked up as an orphaned side from BobC. The original wood used in the neck of this guitar is Durian, (finest possible material you know :lol: ) its a very yellow/white colour wood that would obviously need to be stained in.

I chose Coco for the back strap because it's hard, will probably add a little needed stiffness to the neck shaft, certainly will provide a good mating surface when bolted to the neck block extension and it looks nice.

Here is what I ended up with after the back strap was rough shaped in.

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This next image of the side of the tenon shows how I overcome the problem of the neck block mortise having been cut off centre to the body,,,,told ya, it was a Monday guitar. When fitted at the factory in 1973, the neck had been mildly skew and biased toward the bass side of the guitar. I ended up having to add an even thicker veneer to put this right but this of course introduced a new problem which will be addressed later.

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After the above image was taken, I also thinned out the back of the headstock a little. It had been disproportionately thick, so much so that the capstans of the machines did not have enough protrusion for my liking. I took the neck to my belt sander and used this jig to grind off a few mil and clean things up.

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I think most of us with a static belt sander have version of this jig set up in the shop and they are all great. I made the height adjustment for mine using a spare turnbuckle I had laying around. It works well, adjustment is quick and easy, and the table does not tilt so you end up with a very flat and even surface when done.

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With the back of the headstock now lightly thinned, it was just a matter of cleaning up the transition to the underside of the shaft by hand and the neck was complete less the gluing of the fretted board.

More soon ...............

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Post by Joe Sustaire » Wed Aug 19, 2009 10:35 pm

That backstrap looks great! And another item on my to do list, add a sanding shelf to my belt sander. That turnbuckle adjustment looks perfect.

Thanks for the ideas Kim,
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Post by kiwigeo » Wed Aug 19, 2009 10:51 pm

Dennis Leahy wrote:Hey Kim,

That was a nylon string guitar, not a steel string, you silly man!

Classical bridge with tie block, fanned top bracing (reminiscent of Torres after he drank two bottles of tequila), classical rosette/decal, even had an offset truss rod, engineered for higher tension on the nylon treble strings.
Dennis,

I just noticed the bridge. This guitar is a real dog....classical bridge and rosette, steel string tuners. What the **** were they thinking?? They must have had Doctor Frankenstein on the payroll when they made these guitars.

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Post by Dennis Leahy » Thu Aug 20, 2009 12:05 am

kiwigeo wrote:
Dennis Leahy wrote:Hey Kim,

That was a nylon string guitar, not a steel string, you silly man!

Classical bridge with tie block, fanned top bracing (reminiscent of Torres after he drank two bottles of tequila), classical rosette/decal, even had an offset truss rod, engineered for higher tension on the nylon treble strings.
Dennis,

I just noticed the bridge. This guitar is a real dog....classical bridge and rosette, steel string tuners. What the **** were they thinking?? They must have had Doctor Frankenstein on the payroll when they made these guitars.
If only they has screwed down the pickguard, that would be the coup de grâce - doh!

Kim, since you are giving this guitar a personality transplant and a charisma bypass (yet it would be unfair to saddle you with all of the onus and karma), I propose a new name on the headstock when you are done. Let's see... Maton + Hickey= Mickey? Hate-on? Matey?

Dennis
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Post by Rick Turner » Thu Aug 20, 2009 12:56 am

de Torres probably did not drink Tequila which is from Mexico. de Torres was a Spaniard...

And that's all I'll say about this subject.
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Post by Dennis Leahy » Thu Aug 20, 2009 1:20 am

Rick Turner wrote:de Torres probably did not drink Tequila which is from Mexico. de Torres was a Spaniard...

And that's all I'll say about this subject.
Ola Señor Ricardo, do you think the Conquistadors only brought back gold? :lol:
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Post by kiwigeo » Thu Aug 20, 2009 7:22 am

I reckon they were all drinking Tequilla down at the Maton factory the day they made Kim's guitar

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Post by Craig » Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:22 am

Great repair on the neck Kim . The Cocobolo neck shaft back strap looks very cool !

I rebuilt a lessor quality guitar a while ago too and am now pleased I did.It was the first guitar I owned , so I'm happy to have it playing again. It hangs around the workshop ( when my son or daughter aren't playing it ! :D ) It's a very good feeling to give an instrument another chance.

I'm betting you're going to have a special relationship with this one and it will end up sounding and playing a whole lot better than you may have thought
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Post by Kim » Thu Aug 20, 2009 5:40 pm

Dennis Leahy wrote: I propose a new name on the headstock when you are done. Let's see... Maton + Hickey= Mickey? Hate-on? Matey?

Dennis
Matey!!! :lmao :lmao :lmao.......... I love it Dennis.8)

Hey Craig, nice to hear from you mate. Nothing better than having to fight your kids for use of a guitar you built yourself. The other night I got to lay back and listen to my two girls practice a couple of classical duets, each played a steel string guitar that had been built by me and it sounded great, I had a grin on my face as big as the beach. :D

OK on we go...

With the neck now a 'known factor' it was time to look at straightening out the body. The loose braces were re-glued and then, thinned-out hide glue was injected into the areas where separation had occurred in the ply. The severity of these patches of 'separation' was a concern. The images do not show the amount of separation that could be 'felt' with the fingers when compressed.

This repair would require a time consuming 'one area at a time' approach. First the back of the guitar was placed into a 25' radius dish for support and then the chosen work area was heated with a paint stripping gun set on low. Next a 'small' amount of hot water was 'carefully' injecting between the separated layers of ply. I emphasize the words 'small' and 'carefully' because this part of the operation had the very real potential to turn to shit.

Too much water and the layers in the separation would expand quickly and buckle uncontrollably. This would probably cause even more separation and make it all but impossible to clamp the damaged area back together. Too little water and it would not achieve the desired affect of allowing the thinned hide glue to wick deep into the affected area for a secure repair.

Anyhow, with this first operation complete it was immediately followed up by a second injection of thinned 'hot' hide glue that had been taken well over the recommended 140f. The area was then heated with the paint stripping gun again as the separation was clamped under a thick wooden caul shaped to fit the job and then heated in the micro wave to act as a kind of veneer iron. Once in place, the caul was loaded with as many gobars as would fit.

Squeeze out was then cleaned up with a wet stick and a hot damp cloth, and once properly set and allowed to dry out well, the work area was gently sanded with a pinch of 1973 dust gathered from the linings to blend it in with its surround.

I should have taken more images so I could show the process but found myself forgetting and just wanting to move on. Sorry to those would would have been interested :(

Anyhow the next step, now that I had some idea of the tenon I had to work with, was to address that shonky neck block.

The original mortise was cut skew, off centre, AND too low on the treble side so the fretboard would tilt down on the treble side when fitted into the mortise. When dissembling this guitar it was a 'REAL' challenge to get the neck out in one piece. In the process the glued on neck block extension had to be pried away from inside taking with it some of the wood from the actual neck block. So the first job here was to re-establish a suitable surface upon which to glue the new extension.

It was quite restricted working within the confines of the upper bout region, but with some adaption of the right tools, the job came off OK.

First step was to mark the block level and cut to the line with a razor saw using an engineers square as a fence.

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Next the waste was pared away with a good sharp chisel and the rebate cleaned up with a trusty Record No77A. I love this plane and have found it indispensable for all sorts of stuff. The Record No 77 is much the same plane but the 77"A" has a removable nose piece via a single screw and location pins. This gives you the option of using the plane as a bullnose, removing the nose and using it as a chisel plane allowing you to clean up right in the tight spots, or to add and remove shims between the nose piece and body adjusting the throat to the task at hand, it's brilliant and very handy for work like this 8)

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And here is the neck block ready to accept a new extension which is to be fashioned from tassi blackwood and epoxied into place. A 45 degree spruce glue block will also be added to securely mate the two components from beneath.

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If your now looking at what 'appears' to be the intended depth of the neck block extension and wondering to yourself, why so thick? Its OK, this guitar 'was' a true flat top. I will be changing that and putting a 25' radius on the replacement top. By the time I grind down the rims in the radius dish to match the radius of the new top, a fair bit of height will be lost from the sides and the 'top' of neck block. I will then need to true up the horizontal plane of the mortise and accommodate the slightly thicker tenon created by the added cocobolo. To do this I will need to excavate a fair bit of material away from the base of the mortise.

Looking at the last image above and assuming that the neck block had been glued in the centre of the guitar at the factory, and it was, those of you with a keen eye would have noticed just how much 'off centre' the mortise had been cut....mmmmmmonday.

More later

Cheers

Kim 8)

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Kim
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Post by Kim » Thu Aug 20, 2009 10:07 pm

Well that is a bugger, for some reason the script has stopped working to allow uploading of images???

Hey Bob, anything we can do from your end???

Cheers

Kim

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Kim
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Posts: 4376
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Location: South of Perth WA

Post by Kim » Thu Aug 20, 2009 11:24 pm

Thanks Bob 8)


With the body now secure enough to withstand the rigors, it was time to cut away the worst of the waste from the neck and tail blocks throw her in the radius dish, and take her for a drive.

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After a few laps around the block she was looking OK, the radius was cut just shy of the waist and the rough sawn surface of the neck and tail were cleaning up nicely.

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So now was a good time to look at fitting the new neck block extension. I marked the neck block mortise close to depth and cut with a razor saw at the edges of the mortise, and between with a jap saw to assist in removal of the waste.

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I must have forgotten to take images of the rest of the process but you can see in this next image it is now installed complete with supportive glue block. What is even more interesting about this shot though is how little of the lining is left after cutting the radius. This will certainly need to be sorted out.

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More tomorrow. 8)

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