On Y'r Blocks

woodrat · Post by **woodrat** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 11:49 am

I am about to make my first cutaway (I've been putting it off I know) and I would like to know how various builders make their blocks to accept the end of the treble side bout. On my non cutaway guitars this end of the block offers end grain to do the job but I would like to offer long grain to glue on to the long grain of the side. I would appreciate any suggestions of a successful method of doing this. Thanks everyone.

Taffy Evans · Post by **Taffy Evans** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 12:27 pm

Hi Woodrat
Heres one of mine used it quite a few times, no problems.

Allen · Post by **Allen** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 7:10 pm

Mine have been like Taffy's. End grain to the top and Back. An option is to also glue up a cross ply laminate out of your preferred wood. Getting a little end grain and long grain on each surface.

vandenboom · Post by **vandenboom** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 9:43 pm

Is there less risk in having end grain to top and back, than there is to one side? I'm trying to think this through.
I must admit, I never considered this in the 3 cutaways I have done, and just glued the cutaway side to end grain.
Maybe this is over complicating it, but could you route two 1cm slots in that end grain face and glue some sticks into the slots to provide a better gluing surface?

Frank

Craig · Post by **Craig** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 8:55 pm

Hi John,

I've glued that cutaway end to the end grain of the neck block with Titebond and had no problems . I've been playing this guitar for around five years .

The guitar I'm currently working on has a Florentine as well . This time I've glued to that end grain with epoxy , and also don't expect any isuues.

woodrat · Post by **woodrat** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 11:22 am

Thank you to everybody who replied and showed their way of constructing a cutaway block. I came up with this as a solution to the end grain to long grain question. It would seem that with the substantial surface area of the block there is enough adhesion and it isn't really an issue. I decided to do it this way because it is also easier to shape the long grain as well as an exercise in the joinery

John

Allen · Post by **Allen** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 4:49 pm

Just showing off now John. Watch out or you're gonna get banned!

Mark McLean · Post by **Mark McLean** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 7:24 pm

Yeah, that is way too slick. It is a shame to cover it up.

Dominic · Post by **Dominic** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:40 pm

Neat, so how did you do it?
Dom

woodrat · Post by **woodrat** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:14 pm

I just changed the grain orientation by gluing it to the endgrain of the headblock. I cut a couple of stub tenons into a block to be able to get come long grain to long grain gluing as this was my initial worry (Which now would seem like something that I don't need to worry about). They also add some shear resistance as well but really, as someones signature says "Glue...Its strong Stuff" that aspect is probably overkill too. Anyway, I cut them on my bandsaw but a router would also be good to cut them. Then I put it over my full size drawing and marked my line and again sawed it on the bandsaw and sanded to fit the curve.
So now I have conquered my fear of the cutaway and the guitar is going well. Its a Western Red Cedar topped WA Sheoak Dreadnought with Ebony trimming. I will post when finished.

John

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Wed Aug 05, 2009 5:48 am

Schmick

As Mark stated, it's a shame to cover it up but an elegant solution John.

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