Hi anzlf'ers
I have very little experience with these beasts
What sizes are you guys using?
just tried to cut some purfling i'd glued up, ebony and maple, trying to do a herringbone pattern, it ain't working.
I'm using a 4T x 25, looked at the other blades they all seem to 4T
all advice welcome, thanks
Cheers Hank
Bandsaw Blades
hank
hey hank, mate to be really honest with you im not sure what your talking about, so i cant help you out. what isnt working for you? are the bindings cutting too uneven or snapping? im not sure what your getting at, but id love to help
Most of my blades are 6 tooth per inch. I use a 1/4" blade for alot of my work (eg cutting out tops and a 1/2" or 3/4" blade for other work. My blades are made up my Norwood Sawworks here in Adelaide. Henry's are supposed to be the bees knees for blades outside SA.
If a fine wood blade is causing problems with thin stock then try going to a metal working blade.
If a fine wood blade is causing problems with thin stock then try going to a metal working blade.
- rocket
- Blackwood
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band saw blades
Hey hank,,, my favourite all rounder is a 6mil x 10 point blade, i have bigger and smaller blades but this one does fine work and some of the bigger stuff too. Cheers mate 

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- Blackwood
- Posts: 414
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2008 2:27 pm
- Location: Melbourne (Ringwood), Australia
I tried a couple of different types of band saw blades but just found the band saw too rough for cutting purflings.
So I cut them on my saw bench using my stewmac fret slot cutting blade. 0.6mm kerf means I don't lose too much wood, and it is very clean.
I can't show a photo as I'm away from home for a few days, but I need to put a type of false base on the saw bench around the blade so the skinny purflings don't dive down the gap either side of the blade.
So that I can cut accurately against a fence, I also glue a more solid length of wood on the edge of the veneer sandwich, then just keep moving the fence 3mm.
Frank
So I cut them on my saw bench using my stewmac fret slot cutting blade. 0.6mm kerf means I don't lose too much wood, and it is very clean.
I can't show a photo as I'm away from home for a few days, but I need to put a type of false base on the saw bench around the blade so the skinny purflings don't dive down the gap either side of the blade.
So that I can cut accurately against a fence, I also glue a more solid length of wood on the edge of the veneer sandwich, then just keep moving the fence 3mm.
Frank
If you're trying to rip very thin pieces to make herringbone, then it's a fine blade, and a well set up saw that you're after. When making binding with my bandsaw, I use a 6 tpi and 1/4" blade. Still have to make them oversize and use the drum sander to bring them into final spec. My saw isn't that flash either, so I have to make them more oversize than I'd like lots of times, just so I don't waste a strip or several by having them end up too thin.
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