truss rod length

cactus bum · Post by **cactus bum** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 9:19 am

Howdy folks, I am deciding on the length of truss rod for my size 5 with a 14 fret to body neck. The scale length is 22.75". From nut to body is 12.616". My head block is 1.5" deep. This means a distance of 14.116" from nut thru the head block.

I spoke to the Stu Mac techie and he said I could begin the routed channel between the first and second frets. This would mean a distance of 12.239" from middle of first and second frets thru the head block.

My truss rod length options are 12", 13.25", and 14.5" from LMI. Stu Mac offers 12.25, and 14.25" I want to use a 2-way adjustable truss rod.

The 14.25" rod from Stu Mac would barely peek out of the head block slot if I routed the channel from the nut thru the head block. The 12.25" rod from Stu Mac would barely peek out of the slot in the head block if I routed the channel from between the first and second fret thru the head block.

I am making a one piece laminated neck of mahogany. I have heard one piece necks are liable to break at the short grain area where the neck meets the head stock. I don't want to do a scarf joint for strength as I will be playing this guitar and not a 12 year old. Will routing the channel from the nut mean the nut area will be further strength compromized and be more likely to break eventually? By the way, I also think I will be using a couple of carbon fiber strip1/8" X 1/2" on either side of the rod, ala Allen.

If anyone wants to tell me which length truss rod to use you win a small worthless prize, like at the carnival, and will have my lasting gratitude. Cheers, Cactus

jeffhigh · Post by **jeffhigh** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 10:47 am

Not a direct answer Cactus, but some folks have had quality problems with the stewmac hot rod.
Many have gone over to the allied rod, we had a grup buy here afew months ago.
I was impressed with the rods I got and bought more for an electric and a bass project I am working on.
With the allied rod, the adjustment nut is very small so you can do headstock adjustment without losing too much material like with a gibson style nut

cactus bum · Post by **cactus bum** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 11:59 am

Thanks for the heads up. I can use Another source for the rod. Cactus

graham mcdonald · Post by **graham mcdonald** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 2:12 pm

Alternatively, you can make your own rod. Both Jim Williams and Cumpiano/Natleson have good directions for making a double rod, and you can make them any length you want. It is very simple and pretty foolproof and you don't have to make any compromises in the length. LMI sells allen key nuts for them which are little more than 1/4" across, so even with a nut end adjustment, you don'y have to take too much wood out.

cheers

graham

Rick Turner · Post by **Rick Turner** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 2:52 pm

The great thing about the Allied-style rod designed by the wonderful luthier Mark Blanchard, is that it uses differential screw threads rather than opposing, left/right threads. The differential threads give you what amounts to a geared down effect so less torque on the rod (and more turns) is needed to bring the neck into compliance with what you want. It's a brilliant design. I buy 'em, I use 'em.

Localele · Post by **Localele** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 6:02 pm

Another good point is that they are only 1/4" wide and made from Stainless steel.They have put a bit of thought into these rods.

cactus bum · Post by **cactus bum** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 1:42 am

Thank you all for your input. I will go with the Allied rod. It looks like a hum dinger.

After posting my question in this post I read it again and lo and behold I saw my answer. With whatever rod length I use I now see I can rout out the channel from whereever it needs to begin at the upper part of the neck. If the rod doesn't peek out of the head block enough I obviously need to start the channel farther down the neck. What I still don't know is if there is anything wrong with the rod going from the middle of the first and second frets, or must it begin closer to the nut?

Being a novice in a field is humbling. The most basic concept in lutherie is a new mountain for me to climb. Thanks again for everyone's time. Cactus

Allen · Post by **Allen** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 5:30 am

Going from the middle of the first fret should pose no problem at all. I don't know about the second one though.

Rather depends on how many frets to the body. You are aiming for the middle of the truss rod for the middle of neck length from nut to body join. At least thats my understanding of it.

Rick Turner · Post by **Rick Turner** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 5:38 am

You can bump that action slightly "north" as the truss rod has little or no effect over the heel of a neck. Also with the taper of a typical neck, the neck is a little more flexible a little closer to the nut.

Rick Turner · Post by **Rick Turner** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 5:40 am

Hey, Allen...You're up really early!

Being one who calls Tasmania on a daily basis from California, I know that you're a day ahead and seven hours behind...sometimes six...sometimes five.

Allen · Post by **Allen** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 6:17 am

Yes, I'm always up by 5:30 am. Nice and cool this time of day

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truss rod length

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