What's you your workbench?
Nice stuff, everyone. Gawd, I wish I had something interesting going on in the shop! My building has been on the back burner for a looong time now, I'm still trying to finish fixing up my old house... I did score a couple of bolts of local spruce the other day, when the farmer just up the road was doing some logging. Should make some nice mandolin tops by and by.


Arnt Rian,
Norway
Norway
- sebastiaan56
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A little bit of guitar work but my main achievements have been fitting out my new workshop space.
I have been inspired by reading various woodworking mags and have been setting up things to be cleaner and safer.
I made this cross cut sled from a fine woodworking mag plan but scaled down. Makes cutting large sheets safe and very accurate.

Once that was made I could safely cut up parts to make
First an out-feed table for my table saw with spots for jigs etc and drawers below that for other saw related stuff. The top is 2 pieces of 18mm MDF with some Formica top using off-cuts I got at the salvage yard. I need to cut a couple of slots to extent the mitre tracks. All of these pieces have adjustable feet so I can account for uneven floor. And all the same height as the saw so they can be used as in/out-feed tables.

I also made a new top for my drill press with T-track for the fence, hold-downs and also in the fence for stop blocks etc.

Below that is a small rolling cabinet that fits under the table to hold all my drill bits, buffing pads and other drill stuff right where I need them but mobile if I need extra room for long pieces.

And last, my new router table cabinet. Not quite finished yet. It will have a door to enclose the router at the front with dust extraction at the back and on the fence which is not in the pic. oH, Oh, and handles on the drawers.

I have been very conscious of controlling dust in my new space so all these bits have been designed with that in mind. Either to keep dust out, or to make it easier to collect.
I have some mods for my table saw in mind to keep dust down. I’ll post them as they come together.
Next thing is install my dust extraction and I am done. Pheeew.
Cheers
Dom
I have been inspired by reading various woodworking mags and have been setting up things to be cleaner and safer.
I made this cross cut sled from a fine woodworking mag plan but scaled down. Makes cutting large sheets safe and very accurate.

Once that was made I could safely cut up parts to make
First an out-feed table for my table saw with spots for jigs etc and drawers below that for other saw related stuff. The top is 2 pieces of 18mm MDF with some Formica top using off-cuts I got at the salvage yard. I need to cut a couple of slots to extent the mitre tracks. All of these pieces have adjustable feet so I can account for uneven floor. And all the same height as the saw so they can be used as in/out-feed tables.

I also made a new top for my drill press with T-track for the fence, hold-downs and also in the fence for stop blocks etc.

Below that is a small rolling cabinet that fits under the table to hold all my drill bits, buffing pads and other drill stuff right where I need them but mobile if I need extra room for long pieces.

And last, my new router table cabinet. Not quite finished yet. It will have a door to enclose the router at the front with dust extraction at the back and on the fence which is not in the pic. oH, Oh, and handles on the drawers.

I have been very conscious of controlling dust in my new space so all these bits have been designed with that in mind. Either to keep dust out, or to make it easier to collect.
I have some mods for my table saw in mind to keep dust down. I’ll post them as they come together.
Next thing is install my dust extraction and I am done. Pheeew.
Cheers
Dom
You can bomb the world to pieces,
but you can't bomb the world to peace!
but you can't bomb the world to peace!
- John Maddison
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Allen, this is an inspiring thread; thanks for kicking it off!
Got a couple of ukes on the go using plans from LMI ...
Tenor
Tiger Myrtle back, sides & headstock with King Billly top from TimS; neck of recycled mahogany from an old telephone switchboard cabinet:

Concert Pineapple
High figured Tassie BW on sides and one-piece back; top of Swiss Spruce off-cuts, and neck from the same board of mahogany. Soundholes are experimental based on the Reuleaux Triangle.

Got a couple of ukes on the go using plans from LMI ...
Tenor
Tiger Myrtle back, sides & headstock with King Billly top from TimS; neck of recycled mahogany from an old telephone switchboard cabinet:


Concert Pineapple
High figured Tassie BW on sides and one-piece back; top of Swiss Spruce off-cuts, and neck from the same board of mahogany. Soundholes are experimental based on the Reuleaux Triangle.


Last edited by John Maddison on Mon May 11, 2009 10:30 pm, edited 3 times in total.
John M
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This is the guitar that had the staining under the shellac finish. We re-finished it with pre-catalysed laquer. It's Tassie Myrtle and Engelmann.
It'll be re-united with it's owner in Tasmania next weekend. Dave and I (as well as Mark, the owner of our shed) are off to Tassie on a lumberjacking trip next week. (thirsty work that lumberjackin' stuff)


A pre-amp box. Much better to do this than to be hacking holes in guitar sides.


Walanut and Euro Spruce. This used to have a cedar top but I made it too thin so I decided to replace it with a nic e piece of Euro Spruce that Martin Turner gave me a while back.


The rest of the guitars below have been kicking around the workshop for a while with various things wrong with them, so we decided to finish them all off.
Cedar and Koa 12 fret O model.



Curly Myrtle Carpatian Spruce.

Goncalo Alves/Adi O model

Maple/Sitka O model with Jarrah everything else. One of the sides on this was a bit scorched so one of the kids is going to be the happy recipient of this one.

Maple/Adi OM

This is a Padauk Dready of Daves that originally had a very thin (2mm) Sitka top on it. (one of the first one's we built) The top started to buckle so it's now got an Adi top that's around 2.9mm thick

Thanks fer lookin.
It'll be re-united with it's owner in Tasmania next weekend. Dave and I (as well as Mark, the owner of our shed) are off to Tassie on a lumberjacking trip next week. (thirsty work that lumberjackin' stuff)



A pre-amp box. Much better to do this than to be hacking holes in guitar sides.


Walanut and Euro Spruce. This used to have a cedar top but I made it too thin so I decided to replace it with a nic e piece of Euro Spruce that Martin Turner gave me a while back.


The rest of the guitars below have been kicking around the workshop for a while with various things wrong with them, so we decided to finish them all off.
Cedar and Koa 12 fret O model.



Curly Myrtle Carpatian Spruce.

Goncalo Alves/Adi O model

Maple/Sitka O model with Jarrah everything else. One of the sides on this was a bit scorched so one of the kids is going to be the happy recipient of this one.

Maple/Adi OM

This is a Padauk Dready of Daves that originally had a very thin (2mm) Sitka top on it. (one of the first one's we built) The top started to buckle so it's now got an Adi top that's around 2.9mm thick

Thanks fer lookin.
- sebastiaan56
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- Hippety Hop
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These look like twins. I just put the back on the left one. The other (right) is deformed. Pity, because it was a nicer piece of blackwood.

You probably can't notice the deformity from the picture, but I glued the braces onto the top before I cut the hole. Then I used the heat gun to take the braces off, and the heat twisted the top. I thought the sides and back would straighten it up, but I was wrong. One day I might try to make a neck to fit it, but not soon. I'll bind the good one with cream plastic and run a strip of zipflex (same as the rosette) around the top.
The lace sheoak neck and gidgee fretboard are for another uke that is hanging up at my mate's place. He's supposed to be putting a coat of tru-oil on it each day, but I suspect he's been distracted with his new telecaster kit.

This is it when I was doing the binding. The sad story about this one is that I decided to try egg white to fill, but the rope purfling softened and blistered in one spot. Apparently it wasn't properly seated in the groove when the glue dried. I'll use CA for filling from now on.
It looks nice though all oiled up. Should be playing it in a week or two.
Cheers Hip.

You probably can't notice the deformity from the picture, but I glued the braces onto the top before I cut the hole. Then I used the heat gun to take the braces off, and the heat twisted the top. I thought the sides and back would straighten it up, but I was wrong. One day I might try to make a neck to fit it, but not soon. I'll bind the good one with cream plastic and run a strip of zipflex (same as the rosette) around the top.
The lace sheoak neck and gidgee fretboard are for another uke that is hanging up at my mate's place. He's supposed to be putting a coat of tru-oil on it each day, but I suspect he's been distracted with his new telecaster kit.

This is it when I was doing the binding. The sad story about this one is that I decided to try egg white to fill, but the rope purfling softened and blistered in one spot. Apparently it wasn't properly seated in the groove when the glue dried. I'll use CA for filling from now on.
It looks nice though all oiled up. Should be playing it in a week or two.
Cheers Hip.
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Hippus Erectus
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"Oh he's a lumberjack and he's ok, sleeps all night and he works all day"bob wrote:Dave and I (as well as Mark, the owner of our shed) are off to Tassie on a lumberjacking trip next week. (thirsty work that lumberjackin' stuff)
Sorry Bob, couldn't help myself. Love both the curly Myrtle and the Koa jobbies, beee ute eyefull!
Got some pics of my latest Maccaferri creation to post but I might do a seperate post as a sort of progress build thread seeing as I'm changing things up abit from my last build.
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Nice to hear in church but not in a Mexican prison.
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Some absolutely beautiful instruments coming out of the 'Woodwork", all inspiring stuff indeed.
Stu , What brand of electric components do you prefer and roughly what cost range for pickups etc per instrument. There seems to be a minefield of components out there and matching the good ones must take a lot of trial and error.Cheers.
Stu , What brand of electric components do you prefer and roughly what cost range for pickups etc per instrument. There seems to be a minefield of components out there and matching the good ones must take a lot of trial and error.Cheers.
Cheers from Micheal.
Remember the "5P Rule".
Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance.
Remember the "5P Rule".
Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance.
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Ok I finally managed to get off the battleship grey little piece of "The Guff" and eventually got home yesterday. Waiting for me was a pile of lovely stiff Englemann tops from Graham Hein, some toys from Stewmac and some nice B and S sets from Allied (forgotten what I ordered but they look nice).
Too tired to do anything in the workshop today but should be back in action in a few days time.
Too tired to do anything in the workshop today but should be back in action in a few days time.
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