Neck angle jig

[mac007]

Hi,

So Many thanks to Mark and others-this jig/fixture seems to produce accurate heel angles.

So how do you subsequently put a 5° camber on the shoulders (ie to make flossing the fit a little more efficient)?

a/ with a hand file
8/ chisel
c/ don't bother

Suggestions much appreciated

MK

[kiwigeo]

I do it on my table saw..as described in Trevor and Gerard's books.

1. cut the sides of the tenon.
2. cut 5 degree cheeks with saw blade set at that angle.
3. Final fit using chisel and mortising planes and a sanding block with a 5 degree bevel on it.

[WJ Guitars]

Martin's suggested procedures works well to create neck angle. I am fortunate that I can set up my neck angle using my bevel and adjust the plate angle and lock it in on my Jet belt sander. See photos page 2 attachment.

On your setup I can see that it would require a special adjustable fittings custom made to be able to then use the belt sander to create the neck angle. I expect that this is possible, however I do understand that it would take a lot of effect to make an adjustable attachment on your belt sander. Could be worth it is you intend to make lots of guitars!

Wayne

[kiwigeo]

One important comment......before working on the neck tenon make sure the area around the mortise is flat. Nothing worse than trying to get a good tenon cheek fit against a guitar front that isnt flat. Don't ask me how I know this

[WJ Guitars]

You may like also to view a Youtube by 'Red Tree' that has a different type of jig setup on the belt sander to make the neck angle. See Link provided.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZ-9hHtKMFM&t=944s

Wayne

[WJ Guitars]

Here are some photos using the M & T Jig from 'Elevate Luthier' on my router table. Excellent Jig for M & T Neck Joint once you have set up the neck angle as previous mentioned on my posts above.

Wayne

[mac007]

Thanks for all the replies.

My belt sander jig is actually adjustable in pitch and yaw (the photo probably didn't show that).

The original question was more about how to plane a 5 deg back bevel on the neck cheeks after the initial pitch (~1-1.5 deg) has been shaved.

T+G seem to approach it by cutting the 5 deg back bevel on either a table saw or bandsaw and they then use chisels and shoulder plane to introduce the pitch corrections to satisfy the neck/body geometry.

Anyway-none of that really matters now in my case as I have routed some material from the contact section of the heel (butt join) and what is left is pretty easy to floss after the excess material from the heel is removed as per pic below.

Thanks again

MK