Vintage SG finishing help

[blackdog946]

Hi everyone

First time posting here, and in need of some advice about finishing.

I've got an old gibson SG that I am trying to restore to former glory.







Anyways I've sanded back the old messed up finish, glued in the neck, put on new binding, pulled out the frets, leveled/ radiused the board, and now im getting pretty close to being ready to refinish. Let me just say now that I have no experience spraying anything. However I do have an air compressor and a spray gun which I can use, not sure exactly the specs on that.





As you can see in the photos, I found a serial number and Made In USA stamped on the back of the headstock hidden below the paint. (pretty sure someone tried to refinish this at some point) Searched the number and looks like the guitar could be from early 70's. I would like to preserve the number, as well as the front of the headstock which is in relatively good condition.

My plan is to use Mirolac 3150, a nitrocellulose lacquer from Mirotone. And I will try to go for a nice dark cherry red. Am I right in thinking that when I spray the finish on the back and sides of the headstock it should simply "melt" in to the finish on the front? Does anyone have experience with this product or can you recommend a better alternative? Also after general finishing advice or anything else that could be helpful (or not helpful).

Thanks!

Jeff

[simso]

Even with nitro, if it’s from a different company I always key the first coat in, deshine the guitar and then go for it, this also ensures no contaminants are floating or are embedded in the top layer.

Once I have my first key coat applied, then I typically only scuff furthercoats to remove debris that may have fallen and dried onto the paint

Steve

[blackdog946]

Thanks for the reply, what do you mean by key it in? Sorry pretty new to this finishing stuff.

Jeff

[simso]

Keying something in means creating a toothed effect for new things to bite onto.

Example, keying paintwork in means sanding it enough that you have a good clean surface with small scratch marks, that allows the new finish to adhere to, most finishes adhere vee a mechanical mean, that is they grab onto the surface they attach to, not melt into. In the case of nitro, it will melt into old nitro coatings, but not only downwards but sidewards into the toothed old finish

When we paint onto wood, we sand the wood typically with 220 grit paper, this allows the first coat of finish to grab onto the wood surface from above and from the sides of the grooves of the 220 grit scratches.

Steve

[blackdog946]

Ok, makes sense. Will definitely try that.

Jeff