Been a while, how to replace a banjo skin

[simso]

Hey folks,

Do not know about everyone else, but Christmas was just ridiculous workload from the schools.

Have finally gotten back on top of that, so first job for yesterday was three banjo skins.

I remember other forum posts where people have asked how to do this, so this may come in handy for some.

http://www.mirwa.com.au/HTS_Banjo_Skin_Replacement.html

Steve

Banjo Skin HTS.jpg (167.13 KiB) Viewed 13498 times

[kiwigeo]

Whoa just hang on now......did you say banjas???!!!?????

index.jpg (6 KiB) Viewed 13494 times

[simso]

Ding, ding, da la ling, Ding Ding da ding

Well those folks down the back of Mississippi need to know how to keep dem dare musical instrument going.. nyuck nyuck

All of course in jest....

Steve

[lauburu]

Wind the tension rods until the new drum head is taught.

Great tutorial, thanks. Just what I needed to know for a couple of projects in the pipeline. However, now come the inevitable questions.......

1. How taut is taut? I know that a skin shrinks as it dries so do you compensate for that in the tensioning process or do you just wind it up and pray the skin won't rip and the metal bits don't implode?

2. Can / should you reuse a torn, large banjo skin to replace a torn, small banjo skin or is this inadvisable?

Miguel

[simso]

Good questions,

Pre drying, skin is wet, I pull the head down with the outer shell until its half of it's travel so you have a good 5mm before its flush with the skin, then I let it dry, at this stage it does not need to be super tight, it will be tight anyway.

When dry I want a good solid flat surface, has a distinctive drum sound to it.

I set the head by using good old fashioned hearing, you want an even sound across the top, it's exactly the same as doing a snare drum shell, adjust the tension rods side to side to even the sound out.

when I fit the bridge back on and string her up, I don't want the bridge sinking more than 1/4 it's height,if it does I will start tightening the outer shell down a bit more.

I never re-use a skin, they do over time stretch out and fail, it's possible you could, but a fresh new skin sounds so nice and responsive.

Ask away if you have more questions

Steve

[simso]

Here is a close up side view in tension, very small deviation of the skin head

The outer shell is almost flush with the skin head.

In theory your meant to tension it until you get an A from tapping the surface, I find this to be incorrect, I adjust for best tonal sound.

If this was a calf skin, then the deviation of the head would be far greater and the head would be way more resonant as the calf skin is a lot more pliable. However this was roo skin, and that is nice strong and gives a bassy tone.

Steve

[lauburu]

Many thanks. Very helpful
Miguel

[dpo]

I always trim the skin while it is still wet, I find it easier and get a neater finish.

[blackalex1952]

Do you find that different hides respond differently to humidity, which affects action height and tuning stability, as well as tone in my experience?Ross

[simso]

I think any thin hide will be affected by humidity changes.

steve

[simso]

I always trim the skin while it is still wet, I find it easier and get a neater finish.

I agree, the reason I personally don't trim the skin whilst wet is sometimes, after drying I cannot achieve the desired tension, this means I start the process again and make things a bit tighter.

If I was to trim the skin when wet, I could not re-use the skin and would have to cut another one up.

Steve

[dpo]

I always trim the skin while it is still wet, I find it easier and get a neater finish.

I agree, the reason I personally don't trim the skin whilst wet is sometimes, after drying I cannot achieve the desired tension, this means I start the process again and make things a bit tighter.

If I was to trim the skin when wet, I could not re-use the skin and would have to cut another one up.

Steve

I understand where you're coming from, so far (fingers crossed) I have not had an issue. One day no doubt.