Macassar Ebony

[chappy]

Anyone had troubles getting a finish on Macassar Ebony?

I am at the stage of applying finish to a ukulele that has Macassar Ebony back and sides. The sides are pretty good but the back, after several coats of shellac, appear to have "flat" areas, like a satin finish while the rest of that area is very glossy. When sanding the back the "satiny" spot smeared and enlarged.

Sorry no photos as I got the shits with it and wiped all the shellac off in an attempt to start again.

Someone, unfortunately, may have experienced this and can provide the answer to getting a nice stable finish?

Cheers

Alan

[kiwigeo]

Alan, how are you applying the shellac?

[chappy]

Hi Martin,

Initially applying shellac with a super fine nylon artists brush then sanding back.

After 4 or 5 coats I do a few thin coats with a cloth pad

Alan

[kiwigeo]

Not quite sure what your problem might be Alan. Whenever I get problems with a shellac finish one thing I check for is contamination on the wood surface. Once you've gone back to bare wood try wiping the wood surface with shellite to make sure the surface is clean. What sort of material is the instrument sitting on while it's being finished (eg non slip mat etc). Try padding on the first few coats of shellac and see if that makes any difference.

Sorry I cant think of any other reasons for you problems.

[chappy]

Thanks for the input Martin,

I will tackle it tomorrow and see what goes. Other forums suggest it could be oil so I'll try the shellite approach.

Cheers

Alan

[kiwigeo]

Thanks for the input Martin,

I will tackle it tomorrow and see what goes. Other forums suggest it could be oil so I'll try the shellite approach.

Cheers

Alan

You don't have any of those rubber non-slip mats in your workshop do you? I ask because I had a classical sitting on one of these mats and it picked up some silicon mold release agent off the mat and I ended up having to replace the back due to silicone contamination.

[chappy]

Hi Martin,

I do own one of those meshy non slip mats and use it frequently but this is the first time I've had finishing problem, first time using Macassar Ebony too. Maybe time to look for an alternative.

I will tackle it today and post a reply when I have a result.

This uke might end up as my non seller/player

Cheers and thanks for your help.

Alan

[auscab]

Sounds like it's either the way you are applying the shellac and the timing between coats possibly, or the old silicon problem . If you suspect it may be silicon from the Mat you could try lightly wet sanding sanding the timber with some white vinegar.
It's used for the removal of cured silicon , so I just read .
A few days ago I used silicon to glue in a glass table top and was getting quite Pi$$ed off with trying to get the very last of the silicon smear off the glass. white vinegar worked for that as well . I shall never be without a bottle again . I never am any way cause I always need iron oxide water stain.

[chappy]

Looks like I have cracked it today, I sanded back with 180 grit, then used a scraper over that and that got rid of the smears/smudges of whatever is was. I then used 0000 steel wool blown off with air, a couple of wipes with shellite and then a heavier or "flood" coat of shellac.

I have put on 3 coats of shellac now and all appears to be what will be a nice finish.

Thanks for the input, maybe I will post a finished photograph.

I got rid of the non slip mat and used an old towel.

Cheers

Alan

[kiwigeo]

That's great news Alan and yes please post some photos.

[chappy]

Thanks all for the input.

I sanded back with 180 grit and then scraped, especially the smudgy spots, after which I flood coated with shellac 3 coats, a couple hand rubbed and finished with micro mesh pads to 12000. Finally a coat of orange oil.

Photographs attached on the final finish.

[gpj1136]

When you finish with micro mesh, do you use water? I have been wanting to switch to shellac from lacquer but have trouble with the final leveling and polishing. I tried applying my coats with a sprayer the same as lacquer, and have nothing but frustration trying to level and polish.

[kiwigeo]

When you finish with micro mesh, do you use water? I have been wanting to switch to shellac from lacquer but have trouble with the final leveling and polishing. I tried applying my coats with a sprayer the same as lacquer, and have nothing but frustration trying to level and polish.

If I'm too lazy to level by spiriting off I level with 2000 grit wet and dry lubricated with the same walnut oil I use on the pad during bodying sessions. I go easy if I haven't done many bodying sessions as there's a risk of sanding through the shellac and leaving oil on bare wood.

[kiwigeo]

Thanks all for the input.

I sanded back with 180 grit and then scraped, especially the smudgy spots, after which I flood coated with shellac 3 coats, a couple hand rubbed and finished with micro mesh pads to 12000. Finally a coat of orange oil.

Photographs attached on the final finish.

Well that turned out alright didn't it? Looks great.

[chappy]

To gpj1136,

I don't use any water at all with the micromesh, I think the water and shellac would not go too well together.

How many french polished tables have you seen with glass rings on them, or beer can marks, must the company I keep.

Cheers
Alan

[gpj1136]

That is what I thought so I was sanding dry and it would gum up to fast. I'll try walnut oil next time. I would really like to get away from lacquer. I have a nice spray booth that filters with charchoal, but it's still nasty. Thanks