Tas oak neck?
Tas oak neck?
Hi
I'm about to do my first build using John Bogdanovich's videos and book, I am wondering if anyone has used Tas oak on a classical build for the neck? I've read in the forums that it has been used as a bolt on neck on an electric. I've read that it's properties are similar to mahogany????
Thanks in advance,
Mark
I'm about to do my first build using John Bogdanovich's videos and book, I am wondering if anyone has used Tas oak on a classical build for the neck? I've read in the forums that it has been used as a bolt on neck on an electric. I've read that it's properties are similar to mahogany????
Thanks in advance,
Mark
Re: Tas oak neck?
I've used Tassy Oak a couple of times and each time I say never again. I got rid of the last boards of it so that I wouldn't ever use it again.
Leave it for tables and chairs!
Leave it for tables and chairs!
Re: Tas oak neck?
The downside of Tas Oak or Vic Ash for that matter is that the common name is used for quite a range of Eucalypt species . Some of the species such as Euc. regnans or Euc. delagatensis are well suitable for necks . In the range for density and stronger than mahogany . The dimensional movement is overstated , movement in service is not overly high ( off the change modulus statistics ) . Other species in the grouping such as Euc. obliqua , cypellocarpa or dalremplyeana are getting too heavy for a classical , possibly even too heavy for steel string . Obliqua particularly can be prone to fine checks ( cracks ) . If your timber source doesn't specify species as opposed to the broad Tas Oak common name then it's use is risky .
Ultimately though it's down to the properties of the particular piece you are looking at using as even within a species properties can vary widely . We have a Euc. obliqua drying at the moment that I would happily build with ( the fiddleback helps !) . You need to assess the piece for true grain with no run out , quarter sawn orientation , clear of gum vein and in Ash Eucalypts you should check the end grain for internal honeycombing .
Pete
Ultimately though it's down to the properties of the particular piece you are looking at using as even within a species properties can vary widely . We have a Euc. obliqua drying at the moment that I would happily build with ( the fiddleback helps !) . You need to assess the piece for true grain with no run out , quarter sawn orientation , clear of gum vein and in Ash Eucalypts you should check the end grain for internal honeycombing .
Pete
- 56nortondomy
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Re: Tas oak neck?
I've used it on 2 classical necks Mark and they've both been fine, both were reinforced with cf. Take note of what Pete said, it's good advice. Wayne
Re: Tas oak neck?
Thanks for the advice, I may have to look into some QLD maple;)
Mark
Mark
- charangohabsburg
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Re: Tas oak neck?
And what has been the problem?demonx wrote:I've used Tassy Oak a couple of times and each time I say never again.
Markus
To be stupid is like to be dead. Oneself will not be aware of it.
It's only the others who suffer.
To be stupid is like to be dead. Oneself will not be aware of it.
It's only the others who suffer.
Re: Tas oak neck?
I just think there are much better timbers out there, as in, it's not very nice to work with, it's not very nice to look at, it's a prick to grain fill and if you're a believer of "Tonewood's" then you'd say its dead as a door knob.charangohabsburg wrote:And what has been the problem?demonx wrote:I've used Tassy Oak a couple of times and each time I say never again.
I've never used it for a neck, I have used it for bodies and I didn't end out selling any of them that it got used on.
That's just my opinion, others are welcome to express theirs.
Now there's a good timber. Great for necks, great for bodies, great to work with, looks excellent with a finish.Solandra wrote:Thanks for the advice, I may have to look into some QLD maple;)
Mark
- slowlearner
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Re: Tas oak neck?
Thus far, I'm up to 8 basses and 1 baritone with tas oak necks. Personally I reckon it's a great timber for necks. Super straight grain, super strong, available, sustainable, cheap. Yes, it does tear out a little too easily and burn quick with a router or sander if your passes are too slow. It's also quite dense and heavy. So it's probably more useful where you usually use rock maple than say mahogany. I wouldn't use it for bodies unless it's a laminate body just due to weight. I have used it for fingerboards though and it works well for that.
Here's the baritone... tas oak neck, board, top and back.

Here's the baritone... tas oak neck, board, top and back.

Pete
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