Top and Back domes or radii..necessary?

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nnickusa
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Top and Back domes or radii..necessary?

Post by nnickusa » Tue Apr 10, 2012 8:39 pm

I've got a little idea kicking around in my head for a gujitar. Want to make one that's all my own....

Here's the question:

What effect positive or negative would flat top and back have to a steel string? I'm thinking thin bodied, and hope to get some jazz sounds out of it, and add a neck-mounted pick up, but I don't know if it'd be worth the potential waste of material :oops:

Any help would be appreciated...
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charangohabsburg
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Re: Top and Back domes or radii..necessary?

Post by charangohabsburg » Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:01 pm

Hi Nick,

Completely flat plates are much more prone to cracking when the guitar at some point in its life experiences dry climate (which sooner or later will happen), Additionally, a domed top can be made thinner to withstand the string pull respectively bridge torque, e.g. you'll get a lighter top at the same rigidity, which makes a more responsive and louder guitar.
Markus

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nnickusa
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Re: Top and Back domes or radii..necessary?

Post by nnickusa » Wed Apr 11, 2012 6:24 am

Thanks Markus. I knew there must be a good reason, and those are both good ones....
I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am....

Cheers,
Nick

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woodrat
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Re: Top and Back domes or radii..necessary?

Post by woodrat » Wed Apr 11, 2012 9:05 pm

Whilst in the UK last year I went to visit the makers at Brook Guitars in deepest darkest Devon. They had an interesting take on it. They build dead flat tops in an extremely dry room and they puff into a sight dome when they are in the real world (ie...higher RH) ....not the way I build but another point of view and one that works for them...

John
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Allen
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Re: Top and Back domes or radii..necessary?

Post by Allen » Wed Apr 11, 2012 9:07 pm

Truly flat tops also have the tendency to sink. Even a little will be very noticeable and not a good look at all, not to mention the structural and geometry problems this presents.
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woodrat
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Re: Top and Back domes or radii..necessary?

Post by woodrat » Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:39 am

I think the high end Taylors that are called R Taylors have a 65 foot radius on their tops....that would be very subtle but still domed....yet another point of view. I use a 30 foot radius myself....

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John
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Re: Top and Back domes or radii..necessary?

Post by Paul B » Thu Apr 12, 2012 11:15 am

Totally flat tops can look like they've sunk in the middle even when they are still flat. Some kind of optical illusion going on there.

Adding a dome gives the top another axis in which to move in response to humidity changes.

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charangohabsburg
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Re: Top and Back domes or radii..necessary?

Post by charangohabsburg » Thu Apr 12, 2012 11:44 am

To make the confusion complete: lutes (some lutes?) have a sunken top (=reverse doming) built in by purpose!
Markus

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Dominic
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Re: Top and Back domes or radii..necessary?

Post by Dominic » Thu Apr 12, 2012 12:48 pm

woodrat wrote:Whilst in the UK last year I went to visit the makers at Brook Guitars in deepest darkest Devon. They had an interesting take on it. They build dead flat tops in an extremely dry room and they puff into a sight dome when they are in the real world (ie...higher RH) ....not the way I build but another point of view and one that works for them...

John
Martin guitars used to do something similar. But they had quite good control over the work environmet..
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simso
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Re: Top and Back domes or radii..necessary?

Post by simso » Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:32 pm

woodrat wrote:I think the high end Taylors that are called R Taylors have a 65 foot radius on their tops....
Yes they do, but as you mentioned its still quite a noticeabley domed top.
Steve
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Re: Top and Back domes or radii..necessary?

Post by kiwigeo » Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:43 pm

charangohabsburg wrote:To make the confusion complete: lutes (some lutes?) have a sunken top (=reverse doming) built in by purpose!
This lowering of the central section of some lute tops is probably done as a crude from of relief to stop slapping of the strings against the top. Along the neck, relief is normally provided by dialing in a slight posotive raxke and also using progressively thinner guage tie around gut frets up the fingerboard. The "reverse doming" (not really a true doming as the axis of the lowered section of top runs across the instrument only) is achieved simply by deforming the belly of the lute by squeezing it between your arm and stomach and then running a block plane along the central section of the last ribs of the belly. All done by eye and with no measurements supplied on plans.
Martin

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