As this instrument building is all new to me,( only building number 3 now) I have limited knowledge.The first 2 look and sound nice, but I think they both lack volume on the bass strings,sound really good on the high side.
Could this be a bracing issue? I have posted pics of the current build,which has the same bracing.The only difference being the first 2 had the bracing made with Australian Red Cedar, this one has Sitka Spruce.Both were made with Qld maple back and sides,Qld maple neck and Engleman spruce sound boards, this one being Tarzallie Silkwood and Engleman soundboard.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Latest build
Latest build
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Re: Latest build
Rod,
The image does not allow a side perspective to comment on the bracing height, however IMO they look to be a bit too robust in their width. For instance I have had no issue with deformation of the top with the "X" brace down to 7mm wide at the lap joint tapering to 6mm at the ends. I have not used traditional tonebars but if I did they would be no more than 6mm wide, probably less.
It could be worth your while doing a search on "The Cube Rule", get some understanding of this and it will help you to understand the importance of brace height in relation to brace width. I would also advise that you tighten up on your measurements at the bridge plate, that area is the piston which drives the top. IMO you want to pay close attention to detail there to make sure everything fits properly with everything else. e.g. whether the bridge plate butts up against the braces is a personal choice I guess but it should at least be close with little gap. I butt mine hard against the braces but I do bevel the top edge all round at 45 degree. I would also suggest that you make the cap on the lap joint of the "X" a bit longer but narrower, there is no reason for it to be any wider than the brace itself.
Cheers
Kim
The image does not allow a side perspective to comment on the bracing height, however IMO they look to be a bit too robust in their width. For instance I have had no issue with deformation of the top with the "X" brace down to 7mm wide at the lap joint tapering to 6mm at the ends. I have not used traditional tonebars but if I did they would be no more than 6mm wide, probably less.
It could be worth your while doing a search on "The Cube Rule", get some understanding of this and it will help you to understand the importance of brace height in relation to brace width. I would also advise that you tighten up on your measurements at the bridge plate, that area is the piston which drives the top. IMO you want to pay close attention to detail there to make sure everything fits properly with everything else. e.g. whether the bridge plate butts up against the braces is a personal choice I guess but it should at least be close with little gap. I butt mine hard against the braces but I do bevel the top edge all round at 45 degree. I would also suggest that you make the cap on the lap joint of the "X" a bit longer but narrower, there is no reason for it to be any wider than the brace itself.
Cheers
Kim
Re: Latest build
Kim,
Thnx for the reply.Sorry about the picture quality,the next ones will be better...took these with phone. I should have given some dimensions.The max height of braces is 12.5 mm, and max width is 7 mm. I had only glued the cap on just before I took photo, so it is now trimmed down. I will certainly keep the bridge pad on the next one tight and see if it helps.
Cheers, Rod.
Thnx for the reply.Sorry about the picture quality,the next ones will be better...took these with phone. I should have given some dimensions.The max height of braces is 12.5 mm, and max width is 7 mm. I had only glued the cap on just before I took photo, so it is now trimmed down. I will certainly keep the bridge pad on the next one tight and see if it helps.
Cheers, Rod.
Re: Latest build
Rod, what you need is some way to compare previous builds so you know where you are heading.
Kent Everetts dvd has proven very informative for lots of us on here. In brief he says to listen carefully (turn the radio off and tell the kids to shut up etc) to the ring the top makes when tapped and keep sanding and carefully reducing the brace size (note Kim's comments on the cube rule) and you will approach a moment when the top seems to come alive and the sustain of your tapping will increase dramatically. Instead of dying down quite quickly. The way he describes it is that the sound of the tap will seem to slow down but will pick up again and sustain when you are getting close to the right point and will be much more 'musical'. Use this as a reference point and brace sizes as only a rough guide to know when to start really listening. Even make a mock top just to test and get the feel for the impact of sanding or shaping the braces and keep going until there is almost nothing there so you get a feel for the way the tap tone changes. You can always rebrace the top if you don't want to waste it.
Let me know if I haven't explained this well. Doing it is the best way and I think many who have done this according the Kent get that ah ha kind of moment.
Cheers
Dom
Kent Everetts dvd has proven very informative for lots of us on here. In brief he says to listen carefully (turn the radio off and tell the kids to shut up etc) to the ring the top makes when tapped and keep sanding and carefully reducing the brace size (note Kim's comments on the cube rule) and you will approach a moment when the top seems to come alive and the sustain of your tapping will increase dramatically. Instead of dying down quite quickly. The way he describes it is that the sound of the tap will seem to slow down but will pick up again and sustain when you are getting close to the right point and will be much more 'musical'. Use this as a reference point and brace sizes as only a rough guide to know when to start really listening. Even make a mock top just to test and get the feel for the impact of sanding or shaping the braces and keep going until there is almost nothing there so you get a feel for the way the tap tone changes. You can always rebrace the top if you don't want to waste it.
Let me know if I haven't explained this well. Doing it is the best way and I think many who have done this according the Kent get that ah ha kind of moment.
Cheers
Dom
You can bomb the world to pieces,
but you can't bomb the world to peace!
but you can't bomb the world to peace!
Re: Latest build
Rod,
Just curious, what size is the soundhole?
Cheers
Kim
Just curious, what size is the soundhole?
Cheers
Kim
Re: Latest build
The tone bars are looking like they could stand some weight loss. Really difficult to say for sure because we cant see a profile shot of them, but to me it looks like the ends towards the tail block really could stand to be tapered out. The same could be said for the finger braces.
Those sorts of things will make a big difference to the bass response, at least it does with the way I build.
Those sorts of things will make a big difference to the bass response, at least it does with the way I build.
Re: Latest build
Hmmmmmm, sounding like my braces need to go on a diet !
Dom, I will do a search on Kent today,and see if I can obtain a copy of his DVD.....sounds a must. Cheers.
Kim, the soundhole is 105 mm.
Allen, I think I may have some shots of previous builds on my pc, so I will try to post other bracing pictures today.
Cheers fella's.....Rod.
Dom, I will do a search on Kent today,and see if I can obtain a copy of his DVD.....sounds a must. Cheers.
Kim, the soundhole is 105 mm.
Allen, I think I may have some shots of previous builds on my pc, so I will try to post other bracing pictures today.
Cheers fella's.....Rod.
Re: Latest build
LMI carries the dvd's Rod.
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