Bridge pin holes

[maurie]

I notice that most steel string bridges have the pin holes drilled parallel to the front edge of the bridge. I have recently been drilling 10mm from the back of the saddle and parallel to it, not the front edge of the bridge. I haven't noticed any change in sound, but my thinking behind this is to maintain a constant string break angle, and to slightly angle the holes through the bridge plate to get further away from the parallel grain, even though I angle the bridge plate to avoid this.
Any comments on why I shouldn't be doing this, like maybe an angled torque action on the bridge?
Cheers Maurie

[Allen]

I can't think of any reason not to do it that way. I've seen all kinds of ways including drilling them in a pattern that follows the belly on the back of the bridge.

Personally, the constant break angle appeals to me.

[DarwinStrings]

Same as Allen, Maurie. I use that method and can't see any negatives but would like to hear them if anyone can think of any. From my backyard engineers point of view, I think that the break angle affects the saddle in that too much would really want to bend the saddle and maybe help split the bridge. As for the way the bridge/saddle as a whole unit twists the sound board I reckon that is mainly related the bridge size and saddle height off the sound board.

Jim

[Bob Connor]

Makes sense to me to make sure that the bridge pin holes aren't all sitting on one grain line. And it also makes make sense to have the the bridge pins the same distance from the saddle to ensure a consistent string break.

However there are many fine sounding Martin guitars that have survived the years with the bridge pins in a straight line and I drill the bridge pins in an arc so that the string break is different on all strings. Maybe I'm just not sensible well - at least half sensible.

I wonder if anyone could hear the difference between equal and non-equal string breaks. Probably not, but it's all those small details that add up.

Regards

[Puff]

For a flat topped saddle, pin holes equidistant from the break point would seem optimum. The same is achieved with an arched/radiused saddle by drilling the pin holes in an arc which is a development of the saddle arc. Me thinks
Taken to the absurd Bob, if the saddle was radiused to four inches and the pins were in a straight line 5/8 inch behind it I reckon the result would be discernible. As said absurd but suggesting there is a lesson in there too. As you say the little bits add up.

[jeffhigh]

You can often increase break angle by using string ramps

[Kim]

You can often increase break angle by using string ramps

I always use string ramps, very few acoustic guitars have come through my shed and made it out the other side without being ramped..if its got slotted pins, they get spun 90 degree and the holes get ramped. If the owner does not like it then I'll cut a ramp in his pin hole to before pushing him and his stink'in guitar out the shed door...If your wondering which acoustic guitars did make it in one end of my shed and out the other without being ramped, it was the ones that belonged to people who can run faster than me and dodge the miscellaneous missiles I chuck at them whilst in pursuit, and that's not many...I like ramps.

Cheers

Kim

[Puff]

xxx

[vandenboom]

fwiw, my approach in this territory these days on steel string acoustics which is a collection of wisdom from builders far more experienced than moi is as follows:
- bridge riff sawn and bridge pin holes parallel to saddle slot - (to reduce chance of bridge breaking)
- saddle slot approx 9 degrees to vertical - (better response out of piezo undersaddle pickup)
- slotted bridge pin holes - (longer life for bridge plate)
- ramps - ( greater string break angle)
- 1/8" saddle - (more room to play to get intonation right)
- saddle snug fit test - must be able to take it out with my own fingers, but not too easily (too tight is bad, too loose is bad, for different reasons!!!)

No doubt other things can be added to this list....Frank

[Kim]

No Frank...no other thinks can be added to your list, it is comprehensive, correct, complete, and the same as my own. If anyone thinks of adding to Frank's list, you had better be a fast runner who can dodge miscellaneous missiles real good.

P.S. I am a bloody good shot.

Cheers

Kim

[Bob Connor]

Well then Kim, looked what arrived from Uncle Stewmac today.

The new ramp files and saws plus the bridge pin hole contersink bit.

The new saws look great much better than the old Stewmac bridge saw.

[vandenboom]

Yes Bob, spotted this kit myself in the recent stewmac catalogue. Planning to lash out for this, as well as the reamers I asked about the other day....and a couple of other things of course, to make it all worthwhile!!!
Frank

[maurie]

Thanks for your input guys. It appears our thinking is similar.
Let us know how the Stewmack saws and files perform Bob. I am currently using jig saw blades ground down for ramping. Works fine on the treble strings but a bugger on the base.
Cheers Maurie

[Puff]

Dremel plus flexi-shaft plus straight carbide burrs and a steady hand is cost effective for ramping and initial work on the saddle Ball end burr in the drill press does the countersink and final cleanup of the saddle with a diamond grit nail-file borrowed from better half is cost effective too if it goes unnoticed
Got lucky a few years back when the flash dentists were going to lasers and the new electric handpeices. Scored a complete pneumatic dental cabinet with handpeices for next to nothing. Amazing for all bridge and nut work, engraving and inlay. Burrs are dead cheap too. The water wash lets me feel happier working with shell and graphite as well.

[Allen]

Now that sounds like a set up that we all should be on the lookout for.