new shed

xray · Post by **xray** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:04 pm

hey folks, as i have spoken in some old threads, i have finally moved into my new house and the problem is the old shed has to go. I am going to build the new one in the dimensions of 6m X 10m with a carport at the front. Good news is the shed will be solely used for all things woodworking mainly guitar making. Here is the dillema im facing. Will a colourbond insulated shed in 42 degree summer heat stress the stash of tonewood i have or will it be okay? The other option in have is to build the frame similar to a house design and clad with insulation and more windows with 2.7- 3m height for better clearance?
What does everyone think about these two and does anyone have a cost effective alternative to materials that are great at keeping heat out and in during winter? My limit in materials including slab is 10K
Ideas and comments appreciated thanks Andy

Kim · Post by **Kim** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:23 pm

If the wood is dry it will be fine Andy, no different than Spain. If wet it will need to be endgrain sealed stickered and weighed down. Look in a demo yard for bulk glass batts, better yet the fed gov is handing out cash for insulation right now so get onto that for the house and as the subsidy is also for 'replacement' of old batts, the companies who install insulation would probably love to see you rock up on site with a trailer to take away for free any old stuff they have pulled out. It will save them a trip to the tip so ring around and ask because with a few rolls of chicken wire and some foil you will have a really well insulated shed. The batts may not have the same rating as new, but they will still be quite affective as an insulation.

Oh, one more thing, the side walls of the shed are better to be 3m high as that will keep the worst of the heat further away from your head when you work, if you go 2.7m i doubt you will even get in there on a hot day and 3m also gives you head room to build a seal rh controlled glue room inside the shed and then use the top of it's ceiling for storage.

Cheers

Kim

Allen · Post by **Allen** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:55 pm

Is this the same place that your were at when I stopped by in February Andy, or is this a new place?

xray · Post by **xray** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 9:02 am

hi allen, i was at my old house when you stopped by in february renting and we made the plunge to buy an established house. Very happy in terms of the house, however im high and dry till i build the new shed in terms of building anything.

Kim, thanks for the advice on the bats mate its a great idea! im not really keen on colourbond sheds because they are as hot as buggery on a cold day, im seriously thinking of cladding and a ceiling lined with bats and walls with the chicken wire idea.

Allen · Post by **Allen** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 5:47 pm

OK, from someone who's lived most of his life having to keep the cold out, (and if -45 C isn't cold enough for you, then your tougher than me) here is my 2 cents.

Walls filled with fibreglass insulation. In Canada the minimum is 4 inches, and the roof would have 12 inches. Most homes will have 6 inches in the walls and double paned glass is the absolute minimum. Will keep you cosy warm in winter, and won't take much of an air conditioner to keep it really pleasant in the summer.

Have no idea what this costs here, as insulation and double paned glass seems like some foreign new fangled idea to most of the people I talk to.

jeffhigh · Post by **jeffhigh** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 7:11 pm

Build it like a small house with stud wall frames truss roof etc.
Double doors at the entrance. Clad it with whatever you want be it steel or fibro or whatever but insulate it and line it with plasterboard.
No open frames, flat ceiling no dust traps no air gaps.
Window for light, reverse cycle air con for cooling, ventilation and heating.

Basically if you build a steel framed shed you are going to need to build a subframe to line it anyway

Rick Turner · Post by **Rick Turner** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 11:26 am

The other real issue is a vapor barrier on the inside of the insulation. Consider 10 mil plastic...the stuff we call "Visqueen" http://www.visqueenbuilding.co.uk/ Put that on the studs before you nail up the wallboard. It will make humidity control much, much easier.

xray · Post by **xray** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 8:14 pm

i was just thinking today that one let down would be in the case of roller doors not being greatly insulated. Maybe french doors with double glazing or something? im not sure but the room will hopfully have air conditioning and an office cubical with wi fi access for my laptop. im not sure what the dust collectors are called on the ceiling are called either? has anyone got one of these or are they too xe (pricey)?
Thankyou to all who have posted it has been very beneficial especially our hibernating friend from canada!

jeffhigh · Post by **jeffhigh** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 8:46 pm

Yeah don't do a roller door both for the insulation aspect and for air leaks.
A pair of double doors (french) is the way to go. access for gear when you need it, only use one most of the time. Just go for solid core doors then you won't be breaking glass.

Allen · Post by **Allen** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 9:00 pm

The woodworkers guild has a Jet one, but it's hard to tell if it works well or not, as there is just so much dust happening there at one time, it may not be a fair test. I think Hesh has one in his place, so he's more likely to give you an accurate assessment of it's effectiveness in a small shop setting.

Rick Turner · Post by **Rick Turner** » Sat Oct 17, 2009 4:43 am

The real key to dust control...and take it from one who doesn't have very good dust collection...is catching the dust before it gets into the air. You've got to get it right at the source. Then an air cleaner will make for healthier lungs, but if it's in the air, it's in your face...

My friend Sandor Nagyszlanczy wrote "the book" on the subject.

http://store.taunton.com/onlinestore/it ... 70611.html

Taffy Evans · Post by **Taffy Evans** » Sat Oct 17, 2009 11:10 am

Want a laugh? heres my first workshop in 1974-75, just for repairs at that time.
I've had a few shops since then, all tin. Except for a luxury one I built along with the house at that time, out of rammed earth, walls were 300mm thick and roof so high I put in a mezzanine floor.
Those were the days, but the cook wanted to move to Queensland so it was a case of start all over gain.
'Ive just built a dedicated spray room, I'll post some pics.

Built off the side of the house.

Localele · Post by **Localele** » Sun Oct 18, 2009 6:12 am

I think the biggest problem with the ceiling mounted dust catchers is the constant drone. As Rick said catch the dust at the source. Better still is to not sand much. Get a cabinet scraper , learn to sharpen it and use it for a quicker and more accurate job.

matthew · Post by **matthew** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 5:53 pm

If you can find a place in the carport to stow your dustmakers - bandsaw, router table, etc, then you can keep most of the really big dust out of the workshop altogether. That's the best solution. Otherwise yeah, don't use electric sanders.

Jet dry paint is a really good sealing paint for a concrete floor. Seals the concrete dust out and nice underfoot, even barefoot (what? barefoot in the WORKSHOP??? ..... 'fraid so.)

Taffy Evans · Post by **Taffy Evans** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 6:09 pm

Yes Thats a good idea if you got the space. I have only one machine in the building shop, a pedestal drill, and none in the repair workshop. All the machines are together in a different workshop.

Dominic · Post by **Dominic** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 7:16 pm

Hey team,

The thing to do with the air cleaners is to turn them on for a few hours after you leave the workshop.

Mine has a timer and I will leave it one for 2 - 4 hours once finished. The very fine (and most dangerous) dust will stay airborne for at least that long.

Another tip is to mount it along the wall rather than in the middle of the shop so it creates a circular air flow around the perimeter of the room. Much more effective than just having it stirring up the air in the middle of the room.

Cheers
Dom

Kim · Post by **Kim** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:39 pm

Great tips thanks Dom and Rick

Seems the best over-all dust control system would be to do what we can to catch the dust at the source, probably wearing a mask anyhow, and to then run a micro filter which has been suspended next to a side wall of the shop to circulate the air flow, once you leave the work place. This will allow the micro filter to do what it is paid to do rather than clogging it up, and ruining it's efficiency with the larger particles created during machining operations.

Cheers

Kim

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