White stuff in the pores problem

[vandenboom]

I was hoping someone might have a solution to this problem.
Am finishing an acoustic that has Wenge bindings. Wenge has lots of BIG open pores. Despite two passes with Zpoxy, I continued to find open pores and decided to push on. Applied Mirocat. Was doing the final cut with Autoglym fine abrasive 03B, a white compound, which obviously got into the pores. It never occurred to me I would have trouble flushing it out. I have tried compressed air, moist cloth (water as well as Naptha). Stu suggested a tooth brush which I am yet to try. Has anyone else experienced this and found a solution? Thanks. Frank

[Stu]

I'd probably resort to dropfilling dark stain into the pores to darken up the cutting paste, then drop fill with nitro.

I don't think the toothbrush would do it in hindsight, nor a pin or needle.

I'd be interested in hearing how others have tackled this problem too.


Cheers, Stu

[Rick Turner]

I'd agree with the stain drop-fill approach.

I hate wenge! It's pretty, but have you ever gotten splinters that bad from anything else?

[Allen]

The polish will have set up like concrete by now Frank. The toothbrush will be one in a million chance of working. Stain is going to be your best be.

If the instrument is well and truly sealed. You don't really need to drop fill. wiping on and off should do the trick. If you have areas that are of a concern, then mask them off just to be safe.

Another thing I've done on some minor spots like that are to use India Ink (the type for fountain pens). If the wood has very dark pores like this seems to, this works very well. I use the tip of one of those bamboo skewers. Like a long toothpick really. Dip in the ink, and touch it to the spot. The ink wicks in quite well, and is a good strong color so you don't have to keep reapplying.

You may not even need to do any more work with the lacquer. If the pores are small, and the dried polish compound takes the stain well, you may find that the finish your left with is quite acceptable.

[vandenboom]

Thanks gents. I had some brown stain which I disolved in thinner and used a tooth pick to apply. It wicked in nicely. I have lots of little brown dots which I presume I will cut back in a couple of hours, then I'll do 1 or 2 light passes of lacquer over the binding.
Thanks again. Frank.

[Paul B]

You could also try a brown texta.

[J.F. Custom]

Hi Frank,

Bit late chiming in I realize...

But as a general rule of thumb, go darker in the pores than the timber itself. This applies to both your problem and grain filling in general. Pores naturally appear as somewhat of a shadow, so if you fill with a darker colour it looks more natural and less noticeable.

If you try to 'match' the colour, you are more likely to end up with a speckled appearance - particularly if it ends up lighter. You are likely to draw attention to it in any case as it will just look like something is 'not quite right' about the wood.

Obviously you need to judge the colour choice based on what you are filling but for dark timbers such as wenge, the safe bet is black or close to it.

Jeremy.

[vandenboom]

Hi Frank,
...but for dark timbers such as wenge, the safe bet is black or close to it.
Jeremy.

Thanks Jeremy. I did some experimenting first with a brown that was too light and saw the speckled look that you mentioned. So I went much darker. It is all done now and I am happy and relieved with the outcome .... and have learned a few more things about finishing this weekend.
Frank