Hi guys,
What product would you recommend for polishing/hand buffing a guitar after french polishing ? I have heard of various auto-polishes being used, but was a bit concerned that there may be chemicals in the polish that would react badly with the shellac.
I am looking for something I can source in NZ if possible.
Also - can you polish immediately after French polishing (obviously waiting 24 hours for the final session to dry) or would you wait for a period of time to let the FP harden. If so, how long - 1 week ?
Thanks.
Dave
What do you guys use for buffing after French Polishing
Hi David,
If French Polish is done properly you'll find that it doesn't need buffing or "polishing". If youre having trouble with your spiriting off and youre not getting a perfectly level surface then wait till previous body session has dried ( I wait at least 24 hours) and then lightly level using 600 grit wet and dry and oil as a lubricant.
I assume that you did your body sessions with around a 2lb cut shellac and then finished off with glaze sessions using a lighter cut?
If you want to use a polishing product such as Maguires swirl remover (I used to use this) I'd wait a week before attacking the finish.
Cheers Martin
If French Polish is done properly you'll find that it doesn't need buffing or "polishing". If youre having trouble with your spiriting off and youre not getting a perfectly level surface then wait till previous body session has dried ( I wait at least 24 hours) and then lightly level using 600 grit wet and dry and oil as a lubricant.
I assume that you did your body sessions with around a 2lb cut shellac and then finished off with glaze sessions using a lighter cut?
If you want to use a polishing product such as Maguires swirl remover (I used to use this) I'd wait a week before attacking the finish.
Cheers Martin
- sebastiaan56
- Blackwood
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Thanks for your responses guys,
Martin - I mixed up a 2lb cut, but then cut this again 50/50 with alcohol for use in polishing - which was what i did on my first guitar. Maybe this has resulted in too thin a cut ?
Towards the end of a session, I am finishing off with more alcohol and less shellac, and a quicker padding motion - is this what you are referring to as spriting off.
On my first guitar this produced a very clear finish, wheras on this on (#2) I am getting a very slightly streaky finish appearing. This is becoming less apparent the more sessions I have applied (I have done 4-5 sessions so far), but I am still not 100% happy with the finish. I had hoped that a thin 'cut and polish' with the likes of Meguiars may help this - but maybe this will not help.
I will persevere for another session and see what occurs - then leave for a week and do a light buffing session.
Thanks again fopr you input.
Dave
Martin - I mixed up a 2lb cut, but then cut this again 50/50 with alcohol for use in polishing - which was what i did on my first guitar. Maybe this has resulted in too thin a cut ?
Towards the end of a session, I am finishing off with more alcohol and less shellac, and a quicker padding motion - is this what you are referring to as spriting off.
On my first guitar this produced a very clear finish, wheras on this on (#2) I am getting a very slightly streaky finish appearing. This is becoming less apparent the more sessions I have applied (I have done 4-5 sessions so far), but I am still not 100% happy with the finish. I had hoped that a thin 'cut and polish' with the likes of Meguiars may help this - but maybe this will not help.
I will persevere for another session and see what occurs - then leave for a week and do a light buffing session.
Thanks again fopr you input.
Dave
David,
I use the Milburn Brothers tutorial as basis for my FP technique. My procedure as follows:
1. Seal up bindings.
2. Two 2lb cut seal coats.
3. Multiple Body sessions using 2lb cut. After each body session I stiff off with same pad used for bodying with a little meths added.
4. After waiting 12 hours I stiff off with a seperate pad with alcohol only. This removes the oil thats come to the surface and also lowers any ridges. I work with quick strokes in one direction only (I alternate direction each succesive stiffing session)
5. Once happy with bodying work I switch to glaze sessions using a 1lb cut. Bodying. stiffing and spiriting sessions as for bodying process.
The one thing youll find with FP is there are as many variations in technique as french polishers. You just find what works for you. Im a rank amateur but have managed to get to the stage where I can dispense with the need to sand back to maintain a smooth finish.
Have fun!
Martin
I use the Milburn Brothers tutorial as basis for my FP technique. My procedure as follows:
1. Seal up bindings.
2. Two 2lb cut seal coats.
3. Multiple Body sessions using 2lb cut. After each body session I stiff off with same pad used for bodying with a little meths added.
4. After waiting 12 hours I stiff off with a seperate pad with alcohol only. This removes the oil thats come to the surface and also lowers any ridges. I work with quick strokes in one direction only (I alternate direction each succesive stiffing session)
5. Once happy with bodying work I switch to glaze sessions using a 1lb cut. Bodying. stiffing and spiriting sessions as for bodying process.
The one thing youll find with FP is there are as many variations in technique as french polishers. You just find what works for you. Im a rank amateur but have managed to get to the stage where I can dispense with the need to sand back to maintain a smooth finish.
Have fun!
Martin
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