A new bridge

Dave Anderson · Post by **Dave Anderson** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 12:57 am

I decided to design a new bridge for my guitars guys. I like the new one myself but would like your opinions.
Here's the new one, It's pretty basic :

Here's the new and old:

Lillian · Post by **Lillian** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 2:20 am

I like them both Dave. The only thing that bothers me is that you haven't left an whole lot of meat in front of the saddle on the treble side on any of them, especially if the saddle is going to be centered on the line you've drawn.

Rick Turner · Post by **Rick Turner** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 4:15 am

Lillian is spot on with that comment. I've seen too many broken bridges not to consider that. Also, you might want to think about tilting the saddle back about 7 to 9 degrees for strength and also for better down pressure should someone want an undersaddle pickup installed. It makes a huge difference on both accounts.

Dave Anderson · Post by **Dave Anderson** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 9:34 am

Thanks Lillian and Rick. Yes,I should have drew more accurate lines on them. I wouldn't rout them that close to the edge.
I usually have 1/4"or better of meat in front of the saddle. I have heard of tilting the saddle back like you say Rick.
It sounds like a good idea.

Rick Turner · Post by **Rick Turner** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 3:30 pm

By the way, I highly recommend using a vertical mill to do saddle slots if you can borrow the use of one at a machine shop. Run the mill at its highest spindle speed and use a three flute spiral flute carbide cutter. Then you can set up a jig or a vice to hold your bridge at an angle to the table, plunge in with the "Z" axis to a pre-set depth, and then use either the "X" or "Y" axis table movement to do the slot. I generally go with three passes plus a clean up at full depth.

vandenboom · Post by **vandenboom** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 5:33 pm

Rick Turner wrote:...you might want to think about tilting the saddle back about 7 to 9 degrees for strength and also for better down pressure should someone want an undersaddle pickup installed. It makes a huge difference on both accounts.

Rick - can you tell me more about this. I haven't come across this before, and I generally install under saddle pickups. I'm about to do two in a couple of weeks time once guitars cure.
Frank

Hesh1956 · Post by **Hesh1956** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 8:56 pm

Hi Dave buddy! I like the newer bridge design more than the first one too - nice going!

Is there any difference in the weight of the two?

Also one thing that you may want to consider is having the pins be in a line that matches the saddle geometry. The benefits may be a couple fold and include a consistent break angle for all of the strings and this can also lessen the chance of the pins contributing to cracking a bridge plate if all pin holes are passing through the same, or nearly the same grain lines.

Dave Anderson · Post by **Dave Anderson** » Thu Jun 25, 2009 4:56 am

Hi Hesh ! The newer one - 30.5 gr. and the antique - 28.4 I am going
to sand it a bit smaller around the lower"bulge".
Yes,thats the plan to have the pins match the slot,not straight where
they are more prone to crack. I used to have them in a semi circle(smile) shape.
Good to see you on the forum Hesh.
you must be Very busy eh?... thanks

Hesh1956 · Post by **Hesh1956** » Thu Jun 25, 2009 9:39 pm

Hey Dave - both weights are excellent general weights for a generic bridge.

I am using the semi-circle and although with ramping I have experienced no break angle issues I do wonder if a sharper break angle for the middle and treble pins wouldn't be a plus so I am going to try one and see. This means for me nixing the semi-circle and going with an angled, to match the saddle angle, straight line.

Yeah I have been pretty busy lately doing some mass consumption of wood for future builds and playing a LOT of golf..... or trying to.....

Dave Anderson · Post by **Dave Anderson** » Fri Jun 26, 2009 12:02 am

Ok, here it is trimmed up a bit -lost a few lbs.

This is better imo.

Tom West · Post by **Tom West** » Sat Jun 27, 2009 10:06 pm

Dave: Like the new one now that you put it on a diet. Having the pin holes sloped as in the old bridge is the way I like to do it. Think it gives more uniformity to the break over angle and is less likely to crack. Also think if you use the inside of the line for the saddle slot you will be fine.

Stephen Kinnaird · Post by **Stephen Kinnaird** » Sun Jun 28, 2009 2:04 am

Hi Dave, the boss likes it.
Good work mate.

Steve

Dave Anderson · Post by **Dave Anderson** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 10:23 pm

Thanks Tom, and you too Bossman-Steve,glad You like, amigo!

Hesh1956 · Post by **Hesh1956** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 8:44 pm

Very nice Dave!

Dave Anderson · Post by **Dave Anderson** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 11:53 pm

Rick Turner wrote:By the way, I highly recommend using a vertical mill to do saddle slots if you can borrow the use of one at a machine shop. Run the mill at its highest spindle speed and use a three flute spiral flute carbide cutter. Then you can set up a jig or a vice to hold your bridge at an angle to the table, plunge in with the "Z" axis to a pre-set depth, and then use either the "X" or "Y" axis table movement to do the slot. I generally go with three passes plus a clean up at full depth.

Thanks for this info Rick T. This has Got to be the most accurate way to rout saddle slots.

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A new bridge

A new bridge

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