Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

It would have been about 12 years ago now. It was an off the shelf model that they had to fit the Martin body shape. Though it was still custom built as they don't carry stock that I'm aware of. I did not need to send them a template or measurements when I said it was just a copy of the Style 5. Th...

Allen wrote: ↑

Sun Jun 06, 2021 7:03 am

I've built 2 of these years ago and went with Ameritage cases. Heavy, and pretty well made. They were the only ones I could find that were a good fit.

https://www.ameritage.com

Thanks Allan - did they make a custom case, or did one of their standard models provide a good fit?

Howdy - just strung up a small acoustic based on Martin Style 5 plans from LMI. Western red cedar top, flamed big leaf maple back and sides, blackwood binding. Pretty happy with the sound and feel, although the neck is probably a bit heavy (might thin it down and refinish) and the frets could do wit...

Some spectacular looking timber there!

Really nice piece of work. Thanks for posting.

You mention that the jarrah wasn't difficult to bend, as you are using a veneer. Can I ask, how thick is the veneer, and what is the base you are working over?

Thanks all - will go with compensation in the bridge. Might also have a look at bridge materials - although I have a gidgee blank - perhaps a practice piece - I have made ukulele tie bridges, but they are pretty simple compared to an acoustic bridge.

I am making some progress with my current project, a Martin 5-style small steel string acoustic guitar (LMII plans). Big leaf maple back and sides, western red cedar top, Queensland maple neck, gidgee fretboard. Will be making a gidgee bridge, and applying some Blackwood bindings. Pretty happy with ...

Lovely - I will look out for the sound sample!

Thanks Martin - I was looking for guidance on a tenor build just last night

You also have to have your brain wired like a pencil pushing bureaucrat with totally useless Uni degrees that has never worked in anything productive in their entire life. Got to include all the politically correct talking points interspersed in the application in order to tick all the boxes. I'm a...

Anyhoo, I'd say many on this forum (myself very definitely excluded) would have similar levels of skill and some much more, judging by what we see posted and the end results we see. I have no doubt you are correct - I would love more opportunity to see our friends at work - there are some great vid...

I found the whole thing fascinating - these videos don't often grab me, but this one did. The control of the hand tools is just freaky and they must be sharp. The use of machinery is also so casual - gluing your fretboard down and then running it through the jointer to surface it! However, I also fo...

Big changes - always fun - best of luck with your new venture. I would be interested in hearing more about the creative hub in Bremen - sounds like a great idea.

Thanks Allen - much appreciated

I've built several Guitalele's on both the tenor and baritone body size. The more traditional one is on the tenor but I think the baritone size with a 21.5" scale suits the tuning of A-a better. All my necks get a CF truss rod no matter the size of the instrument. I use Requinto strings or alternat...

I am looking at building a small six string ukulele / guitar for personal use. I have a fused spine and find the ukulele form more comfortable than my old full size Yamaha steel string and, after building a couple of ukuleles that I have been happy with, am interested in further challenges. I have b...

I never leave a "layer" of epoxy. But it's a fine line of sanding so you are just leaving it in the pores or cutting timber off and exposing more pores. It's fascinating to see the differences in approaches - Gore and Gillet talk about trying to not only fill the grain but to leave a very thin cont...

Thanks!

Hi Allen - sorry to revive an old thread - I note you comment that you sand back with 220 grit after the initial application - can you advise what you do after further applications, and between the final application and moving on to applying a finish? I am just about to attempt pore sealing on a lac...

Thanks - its always valuable for a beginner like me to see what can help in taking results to a higher level.

Thanks again - I need to read my instructions more closely - Graham McDonald, whose book I have been referring to, agrees that a 2mm final thickness for the baritone top is desireble. I had been working to the tenor specifications, which described a 1.75 mm soundboard.

Thanks - the top is fairly light (1.75 mm) and the Sitka is fairly coarse and not particularly stiff. I will try to keep an eye on this. I suspect the coarseness and perhaps heavy handed sanding may have contributed to patches of ridging- thanks again

A lovely looking job - nicely restrained - I agree that the satin finish is a very pleasant point of departure from the usual! As a complete beginner, I appreciate the effort that people put into sharing their work - really gives someone something to look toward.

Hi - just sharing my fourth ukulele - a blackwood baritone with a sitka spruce top and jarah fretboard and bindings. After initial problems with the side bending, things have progressed fairly well. I have some issues with the top, where I have two problems: 1. There appears to be some subsidence be...

Very nicely balanced guitar.