Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

They all look great as usual Allen, well done again. Wayne

http://www.mirotone.com/Victoria-Distri ... fault.aspx

Here's their suppliers. Wayne

Maybe you should buy good material and then you'll be extra carefull to make it better than half playable. Wayne

Here's a link for Mirotone laquers in Melbourne Sam, look around the website and find the closest supplier to suit you. Wayne

http://www.mirotone.com/Australia-Produ ... fault.aspx

Ive got a few projects on the go at the moment, hard to get the time to finish any off. Got a Ziricote OM that's going to get closed up tomorrow, a Honduran r/w Hauser that's started and a cocobolo and redwood that's almost done. Wayne

Welcome Bob, i can't play either, your right, building guitars is a lot of fun and a great hobby. Wayne

Great job Chuck, very nice, love the bearclaw top. B/S looks a bit like black limba, but i'm no expert. Wayne

Alan, what about some epoxy with black tempura powder mixed in to fill the cracks, heat it up a bit and it will flow in, ive been doing that on some fret markers i'm inlaying, works good. Wayne

Looks good Col, as mentioned everyone makes mistakes, i'm on my 8th guitar and just dicovered i've put the bridge patch in for a 12th fret join when it's supposed to be a 14 fretter, box is all closed, so don't feel alone with a few mistakes. Good first effort. Wayne

They all look spot on Allen, Well done. Wayne

Very nice Steve. Wayne

I always seal the the purflings and binding, but not the channel, i've had no issues so far. Wayne

Thanks for fixing the photos. Wayne

Thanks Kim, if it's not too much trouble could you also check out the tute Spraying and spray guns by Bob Connor. I know that one had pics i remember them being there, but i'm getting the red x, i don't know why i could see them before and not now. Thanks Wayne

Ive been getting the red x in Allen's tute on spraying and buffing a guitar, anyone else having that problem? Sorry to hijack this thread, Kim's comment brought it to mind. Wayne

Thanks Jeremy, Allen. I'm going to use a heat blanket to bend it so hopefully i'll have no issues. I'll make sure i thickness them to at least 1.8mm. I've glued the back plates together with titebond, gave them a good wipe with acetone and left them for about 4 hours before unclamping seems to be ok...

Jeremy, what were the sides like to bend? Did you have any problems? What thickness were the sides? Sorry for all the questions, i started a Ziricote OM today and want to make sure i don't bugger the sides when it's time to bend. A lot of info out there says Ziricote is very brittle, did you find th...

Looks great Markus. How thick is the back? Wayne

That's great looking timber Pete, love the bridge design. You've done a really nice job. Wayne

Me as well. Wayne

Nick i only call it an internal s/board for want of a better name, and i'm not convinced it's going to be all that great, but that's what the customer wants. ( and they're always right, right? not sure about that either. ) Bad luck about that Pat, hope you have better luck next time. I think you're ...

Yes it's a cat's paw Eric. Not sure what the internal s/board's supposed to achieve, i just build them like i'm asked, this guy has some unusual requests, first it was a kasha now this one, next one is going to have a raised fretboard and the one after that is a Selmer with a fanned fretboard, and a...

Finally managed to get the top replaced, had to wait for the weather to cool off so i could brace the new top. Pretty much followed Trevor's method, except for using a jigsaw, i didn't want to damage the internal soundboard ( should be infernal soundboard, it's been a pain in the arse. ). I used a h...

Looks great Trevor. What's the neck and armrest made of? It all seems to match in really nice. Wayne

Hi Rob, this ebay store has a lot of bone and shell in decent sizes. Wayne

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Pietra-Dura-E ... 34.c0.m322