Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

Ok thanks Mark. It's cocobolo and was my very first order back in 2012, it's in for a re fret which I've done and the re finish, yes it's a great looking set of timber too bad we can't get it anymore.
Wayne

Thanks Martin, that's what I'm thinking too but I want to make sure.
Wayne

I’m doing my first re finish on a guitar, the guitar has been French polished, the owner wants lacquer on it. My question is, is it ok to spray over the shellac? I’ve cleaned it up and rubbed it with steel wool to take the shine off. Thanks Wayne

Thanks Al. Nice to do something different for a change.
Wayne

Thanks Jack.

Thanks Mark. He wanted the top like that for it’s tone he reckons it’ll give a different response than spruce or wrc. I built him am OM half wrc and half spruce and he absolutely loves it and I was a bit sceptical but it does sound really nice. Now he’s talking about an archtop with a 3 piece top. H...

Thanks Wayne. I’ve got another set of the jarrah also uke sized, I’d love to get a guitar set. Wayne

An unusual order. A 5 string baritone uke in the shape of a Selmer with a d hole. Also unusual is the 3 piece top which is wrc/spruce/wrc. Curly jarrah back and sides, Tasmanian oak neck and eirw bridge and Tasmanian black wood bindings. It was a nice little project to do which I slotted in between ...

Hi Alan. It doesn't seem to fill the pores, I did 6 coats on an EIRW guitar and it still wasn't completely done. I've still got half a container but I probably won't use it. It does go on easy and sands off easy, I agree with that. Sorry for the thread hijack.
Wayne

If you're going through all the work to build a guitar then give it it's best chance of being something great, use a good quality top that's known to work, spruce, WRC, huon, why take a chance on a largely unknown timber, just my opinion. I use paulowonia for my lattice bracing and find it good for ...

Hi Bob. I'd compensate the saddle, I do on all my guitars now matter what the size. I'd re think a gidgee bridge it's a heavy timber, it's ideal to have the lightest bridge possible, I use EIRW but walnut is good also, there's plenty of other choices as well.
Wayne

If you don't want to use epoxy and I don't blame you, Mark's suggestion of timbermate is a good alternative, I've got aquacoat here and I don't like it at all maybe I'm using it wrong although I don't see how you can. The shellac method is pretty labour intensive, ok for young guys with good shoulde...

The other thing to consider is you wouldn't be able to carve a re curve around the edges and that is a big factor in the sound of these types of guitars.
Wayne

Thanks Allen, I have that blue too but haven't used it yet.
Wayne

Looks great Allen, that blue is awesome. Is the blue from stewmac or elsewhere?
Wayne

Thanks Joel, the new owner received it today and he's pretty happy.
Wayne

Thanks Andrew. I used es335 plans to build it, I made some alterations to the centre block that's all.
Wayne

Thanks Wayne

Thanks Al and Mark, yes Mark it's a set neck, first time for that too.
Wayne

I've just finished this one and it's leaving to the new owner on Tuesday. My first go at this type of guitar, it was a challenging build for me and took about 12 months on and off. Tassy oak body Nato neck Gotoh bridge and tail piece Orpheus p90 pickups ( sound great ) Gotoh tuners Ebony f/board I p...

Very nice Steve, you're right about the ziricote it's amazing.
Wayne

Use ca. Cocobolo is really oily and unless you can clean inside the cracks with acetone then titebond won't stick. I had a similar problem with a set I had and used ca it did the job. Wayne

Don't be too hard on yourself Trevor, we all make mistakes, anyway the end result looks good.
Wayne

Nice work Paul, they look great well done. Wayne

You could try some ca to glue it back and then make a patch to glue on the inside. Usually b/w bends ok I'm not sure what went wrong for you, I'm guessing your sides were the right thickness, too thick could cause a problem. Wayne