Search found 56 matches
- Sun Mar 22, 2009 2:34 am
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Lutherier's Workbench
- Replies: 25
- Views: 36349
Pine flooring ply for the top. The light colour contrasts with items like small drill bits. I think mine is 24mm thick. Waist high or a bit higher is a comfortable working height. Ideally, anchor the base to the floor so it doesn't move at all but you can move around it as necessary. Mine is fixed t...
- Wed Mar 04, 2009 3:34 pm
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Coffs Coast holiday. Denwar Harps visit
- Replies: 1
- Views: 3101
Coffs Coast holiday. Denwar Harps visit
A few months ago I mentioned in a post that we were planning a holiday on the NSW coast South of Coffs Harbour where we have a 9 acre property. Uke builder, Michael Connor, kindly offered us a workshop tour on our way South from Coolangatta (our point of arrival), but that didn't work out: he was he...
- Sun Feb 08, 2009 3:25 pm
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: BZ where do you draw the line between price and quality
- Replies: 17
- Views: 12344
- Thu Jan 15, 2009 1:31 am
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Sealing and finishing Sitka Spruce top
- Replies: 20
- Views: 19448
With Lutz spruce (can't comment on Sitka - never used it.) I don't get those shellac grain ridges. Maybe I've been lucky so far. Surface prep might have something to do with it. I progress through to 1500 grit. On the first guitar I used the True Oil sealer but switched to shellac after the bottle r...
- Sun Jan 04, 2009 2:20 pm
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Norman Blake style 000
- Replies: 95
- Views: 71129
Thanks for posting that bracing pattern Alfred, all good things to consider. This top is Engelman and is .110 right now, and it'll get thinned around the perimeter of the lower bout. Do you have the legs of the x-brace exiting the sides of the bridge, or out the back. The Norman Blake model, and al...
- Sat Jan 03, 2009 10:53 pm
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Norman Blake style 000
- Replies: 95
- Views: 71129
Hi Allen, Thanks for posting about this - a very interesting topic. I've built 3 guitars - another one on the go - based on the same or very similar idea: 13 frets to the body, bridge set further into the lower bout and more distance than usual between the bridge plate and X brace joint. I got the i...
- Sun Dec 21, 2008 5:35 pm
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Shane from HighMountains
- Replies: 12
- Views: 11458
I don't suppose it will help Shane to know the surf at Byron Bay is like a warm bath at the moment. That does it! We are definitely going back for a visit near the end of February. Friends of ours live just up the coast at Ocean Shores. i'll rent a car in Brisbane and drive down the coast from ther...
- Wed Dec 03, 2008 3:11 pm
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Sticky back sandpaper rolls
- Replies: 29
- Views: 29370
- Mon Dec 01, 2008 2:51 am
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Terrible news for Colin Symonds.
- Replies: 3
- Views: 4594
terrible news
Colin posted a thread last month about a redwood / Cuban mahogany OM that he had just finished. It was really impressive. And his playing is equally impressive. For those who haven't had the pleasure of listening to this very fine guitarist, check out this recording of Colin playing the recently com...
- Sat Nov 15, 2008 11:18 pm
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Bridge plate timber?
- Replies: 11
- Views: 10426
Choice of bridge plate material is said to influence tone. Rock maple is said to have the least effect. i.e. it does not add any perceivable quality to the tone of the instrument. Martin guitars used it, then switched over to IRW for a while in the 1960s or 70s, and then switched back to maple. IRW ...
- Sat Nov 15, 2008 10:45 pm
- Forum: Health and Safety
- Topic: Warning! Epoxy Grain Fillers, be very, very careful
- Replies: 29
- Views: 90511
Bloody Hell!!! Thanks very much for the warning. James and I have something in common. I built a yacht once upon a time. The steel hull was a bit rough so after sandblasting and and layers of epoxy undercoat I faired it with west system epoxy. Lots of sanding required - me covered in epoxy and fill...
- Sat Nov 08, 2008 1:17 am
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Baby Taylor/Mini Maton/Tiny Guitar
- Replies: 6
- Views: 8005
I've built a Size 5 Terz guitar. Used Scott Antes plans for the basic dimensions, but lightened up the bracing considerably. You can see the finished instrument in this thread. Size 5 Terz Wotta little beauty! That gets my vote. one of these years I would love to build a wee little guitar like that.
- Wed Nov 05, 2008 2:49 am
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Need some advice - structural problem with my first guitar?
- Replies: 23
- Views: 17898
Ditto to Dave's comment. That scolloping is really extreme. There's no need to scollop the top half of the X braces. There's not enough meat below the X brace joint to support string tension either. I also scollop braces, but not to that extent. Industry standard for sitka tops is 1/8 inch (3.6mm). ...
- Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:43 pm
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: finally finished the first build
- Replies: 14
- Views: 11562
- Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:27 pm
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Drill Press tips wanted
- Replies: 17
- Views: 22883
A question about the belt sander, I assume the tilting table setup is for smaller pieces, it doesnt look like its big enough for backs, sides etc. Sebastiaan quite right, but I use the belt sander with that tilting table to thickness pegheads in exactly the same way that Taffy shows in that photo a...
- Sat Oct 18, 2008 10:36 pm
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Drill Press tips wanted
- Replies: 17
- Views: 22883
This doesn't compare with Craig's beautiful set up. Hope the photo helps though. The drum is home made - a bolt epoxied through a wooden block. Nothing flash but it works. Changing the cloth backed abrasive is a PITA. http://www.anzlf.com/phpBB2/userpix/149_IMG_0136_1.jpg This might also be helpful....
- Sun Oct 12, 2008 10:42 pm
- Forum: Tutorials
- Topic: Making Beveled Back Reinforcement Strips
- Replies: 4
- Views: 7920
- Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:41 pm
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Redwood/Cuban mahogany OOO
- Replies: 20
- Views: 15862
Thanks for posting the photos and soundfile. The guitar is gorgeous and the soundfile says it all. Superb work! Good to see a departure from the bracing norm. Obviously it works. I was surprised to hear that the trebles sound full and sweet even though you use parabolic bracing. I tried it once and ...
- Fri Sep 26, 2008 11:40 am
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Live from the Zoot Cave
- Replies: 22
- Views: 19309
- Sun Sep 21, 2008 10:04 pm
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Finishing by hand...what to use?
- Replies: 86
- Views: 70122
Thanks for that Alfred . You say you just pad it on ( not french polishing ) Could you explain that technique ? Make a batch of one pound cut shellac by dividing a jar into quarters. Mark each 1/4 on the side of the jar with a felt pen. Fill the bottom quarter with dewaxed shellac flakes then fill ...
- Sat Sep 20, 2008 9:31 pm
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Finishing by hand...what to use?
- Replies: 86
- Views: 70122
Just a word to those using Tru oil . I have found it reacts when using it over Zpoxy Finishing Resin. There is a thread on the OLF at the moment covering this. Tiny crumbs appear on the finish . I have micromeshed them off , and it's seems to have finally stabilized .I haven't tried the Tru oil sea...
- Sat Sep 20, 2008 9:20 pm
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Finishing by hand...what to use?
- Replies: 86
- Views: 70122
Hi Alfred I never bother buying pumice, I just pick it up at the beach. To process it into powder just give it a rough crush then wash it out in a bucket. Take the floating pumice from the bucket, let it dry then grind it down to a powder (hammer in an old breakfast bowl does the trick). I put this...
- Sat Sep 20, 2008 9:15 pm
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Finishing by hand...what to use?
- Replies: 86
- Views: 70122
It depends on what exactly you're referring to as "silica powder". What exactly is the product? Pumice is basically silica dioxide (Si02). I use Behlens 4F grade pumice for my pumice pore filling. System three silica thickener from lmi is the stuff I ordered to thicken up Z epoxy. The label calls i...
- Thu Sep 18, 2008 5:44 am
- Forum: Instrument Builders Forum
- Topic: Finishing by hand...what to use?
- Replies: 86
- Views: 70122
What I was happiest with was a combination of pumice and egg white. The best and easiest result I got was to use egg white with 400 grit wet and dry with just a little dusting of very fine pumice. It filled much quicker with the pumice in the mix. Would silica powder mixed in with the egg white do ...
- Thu Sep 11, 2008 2:13 am
- Forum: The Gallery
- Topic: "000" finished and delivered
- Replies: 15
- Views: 15524