Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

Did some padauk ukulele sides last weekend on the bending iron.
Most difficult wood I have done so far, and I had it down to 75 thou.
Had to be bent REALLY HOT and slow but no problems with scorching.

I got the "sealer and filler" from these guys http://www.magnumsports.com.au/product.php?productid=16718&cat=0&page=1 Despite having "filler" in the title it is actually quite thin viscosity and clear not at all like the tru oil itself. Can't imagine it filling deep pores readily. I have used it on ...

You can finish completely with oil too

http://www.ukulelecosmos.com/phpBB2/vie ... php?t=8120

Using the slurry sanding method for pore fill.

This guy used danish oil for the basecoats but I have used tru-oil with a few drops of turps to keep it wet.

Gratay,
If you are going to tru-oil the soundboard, I would recommend the Birchwood casey "Sealer and Filler" as the prime coat.
Stops too much absorbtion/ colouring.
Was able to scrape back to clear wood for the bridge very easily too.
Jeff

Yes it does but not enough to worry about with 16" radius.

All you Kiwis please understand.

We make all these jokes about you shagging sheep with the greatest love, affection and respect.........











For the sheep

I have used Myrtle for a uke fretboard and tiger myrtle for a weissenborn non-fretboard. Not sure if I would use it for a standard SS Used cooktown ironwood on my OM and am really happy with it. I would really like to know what Maton used in the 50's and 60's to make sure I never use it, My first Ma...

Ok Here is a pic of my neck joint disassembled The Black strip is 3mmx1mm CF as a bearing strip The hole in the neck block has a threaded insert installed from the inside. The bolt is installed from the outside into an enlarged spotfaced hole and doubles as a strap button. I had to trim a little on ...

It was actually one of those strawberry Jam jars that become a drinking glass. the right diameter and a nice low taper.
Whenever I need something round, I wander around my kitchen with my calipers and generally find something appropriate.

Strawberry flavoured titebond.......

The robosander that the luthiers friend is bult around is a great unit.
I have the 3" version and it is really good quality compared to a lot of sanding drums around. Removes material really quickly.
I just have the rotary bush set into a hole in a sheet if MDF for stability when not pattern sanding.

Without referring to any particular issue or person, I have to agree with Colin about the Pauedo-Science.
Too often we have very false structural or acoustic theories put forward to justify a particular method rather than real calculation or accurate testing and measurement.

I'd like to add 5 A grade ebony bridge blanks to my 5 Agrage enony fingerboards Please
thanks
Jeff

Put me down for 5 A grade ebony please Allen

Hey Martin, I got the innotation wrong when I built my LP Junior last year,
And with a stud mounted bridge /tailpiece I thought I was stuffed.
Managed to file out the tailpiece slots a little and got there eventually without having to plug and redrill.
Much more careful now.
Jeff

Martin
A useful tool for determining saddle position is the Stewmac fret calculator
http://www.stewmac.com/cgi-bin/hazel.cgi
which gives positions for high and low E

I suspect you are probably 1.5mm too long on all your compensation lengths due to high nut slots and or high strings at the saddle.

Hi Martin,
Are these results with strings at final playing height?
2-3 and 9-10 look really suspicious and I would not expect 12 to be longer than 11

Hi Martin, I have a mid 70's Guild 12 that I set up some time ago with individual string compensation on the standard saddle which is about 2.5mm wide. Just checked it now and it is still pretty good except that it is playing just stightly sharp due to needing a neck reset. IMHO a 5mm saddle is unne...

Hi Taffy, I wanted to try something different with the neck and I had a few boards of the Celery top pine so... Totally different to Radiata, the pieces I have would have a ring count of 20 - 25 to the inch. Stiffer and denser than spruce Only had it strung since monday, maybe one thou relief so far...

Hi Allen, thanks for the kind words. I just really liked the look and concept of the v- joint as opposed to a scarf joint and did not want to do a one piece again like I did on my LP Junior. The neck joint is REALLY simple. I considered a lot of options, wanted external rather than trru the soundhol...

Kim, I will give you my impressions in a week or so but the Lutz was really nice to work with and very stiff. Got both the Lutz and the sassafras from Tim Spittle who was very helpfull when I "lost" the original back........ Weighs in at 1.7kg despite a fairly bulky heel. The only flatop I have here...

I guess with the sanding I mean it shows any deficiencies in he sanding before finishing and also it scratches fairly easily during the finishing process with any stray grit. I found the best way for me to get the final surface was to sand from about 800 through to 2000 with turps to get a matt fini...

I am a bit on the fence about the tru- oil, it is a bit softer than the alternatives and shows no mercy with sanding deficiencies Only strung it up yesterday morning so the sound is still developing, sounded reall shitty at first, then picked it up that night and a big change for the better Probably...

Yeah the Celery top is sitka spruce white with the occasional dark streak. mine is finished in tru- oil with the birchwood casey sealer underneath which helps to keep the colour light Works pretty easy except for the occasional pin knot and associated cranky grain. This is from a couple of boards I ...