Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

Hi Allen, My goodness! That's gorgeous... again! Very nice, and nice wood combo too! How did you do the scrimshaw? Awl? Any other tools? Thanks, GregL. It's the Coulter precision scrimshaw tool. It's the Rolls Royce version of a awl. That and an Opti Visor and very good lighting. Color fill is arti...

Yes, it's a pretty industrial design that has a 700mm x 1,200mm working area with 300mm of Z height and a 3hp ATC spindle. Built it about 3 years ago now as I couldn't find anything in this size that wasn't just a toy, or cost over $50K.

I've been wanting to do something like this for several years and finally got the opportunity over the last several weeks. And the real sweetener was that every single component went together like it was wanting to be an instrument. The Honduran Rosewood is from some very old stock I've stashed away...

I shot some video of the machining processes on my CNC yesterday of making a bridge. 6 different operations over about 7 minutes total to make a bridge that by hand I wouldn't really have a clue how to do without more jigs and hand work than would ever be practiacal.


youtu.be/ek3UPNZPwXk

I follow Kent Everetts method of doing the bevel cutaway. The process is pretty much the same. His video is available on Robbie Obrien's website. I highly recommend you follow the steps he outlines as missing one will really make the process a nightmare for fit and finish. This style was far easier ...

I'd try a different brand of strings first off.

I've seen this often enough to not jump to too drastic solutions before trying something easy.

Longer scale length to keep the saddle as close to the sweet spot as I can. Some times it's a challenge as clients might want the extra frets but also have small hands that they are not comfortable going to a much longer scale.

It depends on the tuners that you plan on using. If you have them on hand then just measure what would be appropriate. Otherwise most quality tuners will you buy will also have a drawing letting you know the critical dimensions. Most headstocks you will find are in the 10 - 12 mm thick range. If you...

Great news Lillian. I've always enjoyed your participation here.

No, the laser doens't pose the problem. It's when you go to tap into place something like a diamond fret marker like I have that the occasional one will break apart.

This pink stone was fine, but I have another pattern that has several blobs of different colors that have less structural integrity.

I like the recon stone. I cut it with my laser. I imagine it would be dead easy with other tools too. Some of the very figured pieces I've use will fracture / crumble for instance when I do fret markers. The bond between the various colores not being too strong. As long as you use it with that in mi...

15" scale concert ukulele in Blackheart Sassafras and Adirondack Spruce.

Blackwood bindings and Pink Recon-Stone highlights. This is the first time I've gone with this style of cutaway. I quite like the look. Strung up with Worth Browns gCea. Finished in high gloss polyurethane.

2mm should be easy for a guitar.

Figured timber takes extra care as the short grain is very easy to fracture.

Pretty simple. Make sure that your side material is as thin as it needs to be. Different between ukes and guitars. Thinner is easier to bend. I build my ukes at 1.7 - 1.8mm thick. Iron is on full wack. Spritz side with spray bottle and I use a piece of alumium flashing to back up the timber so helps...

First time it's ever happened to me. Thankfully I switched from a Spanish Heel style as that would have been the end of my self composure, having to toss out the body on this one.

This one has been in the works for a long time. Had to scrap 2 complete necks with all the inlay already done because of flaws showing up after carving. Enough to drive you mad wondering how borers can get into into a piece of mahogany with no sign of entry. So it's Tassy Blackheart Sassafras, Ancin...

Push string through bridge and fish it out the sound hole. Tie a bead onto it and then pull it back up to seat against the bridge patch. I use a Carbon Fiber Bridge patch so will last a lifetime.

I have one that I just completed a couple weeks ago and have posted images to the form here.

If it interests you it's available from my website.

Master Grade Australian Blackwood Concert Ukulele. The 15" scale length fret board has a 12-16 inch compound radius. Rubner machine heads. Finished in high gloss polyurethane. Australian Blackwood Concert02192019_1.jpg Australian Blackwood Concert02192019_2.jpg Australian Blackwood Concert02192019_3...

I have blankets from Michaels Enterprises and a couple of small ones from Keveno that you can get on eBay. You purchase them by size and wattage. I built a custom controler to control the heat. Much like the one you can get from LMI. You absolutely never leave a heat blank unattended as they can get...

You can pickup a thin kerf blade from Bunnings that will cut 1.7 - 1.8mm. I used one that is designed for the battery operated saws that trim carpenters use. Just 6" diameter, but that's all that is required. Way easier than trying to get wedges to fit correctly.

Pretty much most pro uke builders I know will use both the iron and a silicon heat blanket. The shape of my ukes have a couple very tight bends that are very prone to fracturing if just done with a Fox style bender. I hand bend all my sides to close to shape and set the bend on a solid form with the...

I have an absolutely extrodinary plank of WRC that I found at Bunnings. Dead on the 1/4 for it's entire lenght with zero runout. Built serval instruments with it and lots more on the shelf.

I use Bote-Cote epoxy for my pore filling. I can get it locally, but it's so good I would happily order direct and have it shipped. They have a solvent called TPRDA to add to it for deeper penetration and this works a treat. That size of crater is definately not solvent boiling. It's contamination o...

If you are getting craters on a spruce soundboard, and they look similar to the open grain hardwood, then it's not the pore filling that's causing this. When you sand back and check very carefully, are there any craters left? If not and then they appear in the next coat, are they appearing in the sa...