Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

I'll add a few things to this post. You need to spray a wet flowing coat. What you see off the gun is pretty much what you'll end up with when it's cured. As it's a catalysed product, only make up what you can use for the job. Depending on your temp and choice of solvent, it's quite possible that it...

I use Mirothane now going on for 5 years. Their website and instructions are very confusing, and I believe its because their product can be applied in so many ways for different purpose and application. My local distributor has laid out what would be most appropriate for the vast majority of his cli...

Yes. It would be humidity. Seen it several times.

I have contacted a luthier in Hobart who is going to have a look at it. Hopefully it's just a matter of a level and buff.

I have a tenor uke in Hobart that has a back seam blemish most likey caused in the long shipping time from Cairns to Tassie in December.

Is there someone that can have a look at it? Most likey just needs a bit of flattening with P2000 and a buff.

It's just over 1.0 mm when I measure it. I bought a roll of it years ago out of China that was targeted at industry that used vacuum and heat to cure. My original press just used PVC material from the local rubber place that is usually sliced up to make fly screen doors. The silcone works heaps bett...

I just have a frame that is made from timber with silicone rubber membrane. Rubber gasket on the sealing surface. Very much just like a bridge clamp. Just super sized. Use it on a smooth countertop. Works like the hinged ones but far less expensive, and I can store it out of the way when not in use.

Thin soundboard will just about always show the braces telegraphing through. Think of it as a feature of a lightly built responsive instrument. Saying that, this did bother me on my instruments and when I started doing some research found that a couple things could help aleviate the "problem". First...

Unless there is enough material left to straighten it out.....And then let it rest for some time to see if it's then stable I'd be tossing it in the bin.

I've been using a Carbon Fibre bridge plate in all my ukuleles as per David Hurds recommondations in his book going on now for about 12 years. At 0.8mm thick it weight is bugger all and extremely stiff.

You can ignore the minimum sanding thickness on all machines if you use a platten to put your veneers on. Somethingn like 12mm MDF with a strip on the end to catch the material from shooting off of it when feeding it through.

I've always built the taper with a wedge on the bands saw. Adding the stacked heel and cutting the scarf joint aftwerwards. About 500 instruments now. Can't see any reason to make it more complicated than that.

I had a 150 grit one once and that was way too coarse for my liking. It left deep scratches in the wire that were a total PITA to remove.

Most of the Aussies and Kiwis will be using Mirotone 3220 lacquer as its relativey easy to source and easy to use. If you search the forum you will find lots of info about it's application going back over the entire time the forum has been in operation.

If you need to adjust the left / right alignment of the neck then the M/T will more than likely need a little bit of play, or there will be pretty much no chance on getting that adjustment dialed in.

There is plenty of variation to Australian Red Cedar. It grows all around where I live in north Queensland. Very fast growning that I if getting lots of sun and rain will have growth rings that are up to 1+ inch wide. I've used pieces from what you would refer to as "Old Growth" with somewhat tighte...

When I've been back in Canada and bought timber I've purchased a cheap "Hockey Gear Bag" to fill up. Can usually get them at a thrift store for a couple of dollars. Its then easy to just open this up at customs when you get back to Australia when they want to inspect the timber.

I've built a few ukes with a torrified Sitka soundboard. And have a tenor in progress right now. The soundboard itself is harder and stiffer than regular Sitka stock from the same supplier. I like the honey color of it and it does smell nice. Earth shattering difference to the instrument......no. Bu...

I only use HHG when gluing up the body. The soprano I'm working on had the binding channels routed yesterday and there was no problem at all.

I've heard builders saying that Huon Pine is difficult to glue, but that has never been my experience.

I use Huon often and never had a problem. Got a soprano on the go right now so will have a close look this morning.

Alaska Specialty Woods is located on Prince of Whales Island.

https://alaskawoods.com/contact-us/

I fill that sort of thing after it's been sealed and even after the first session of clear on it. I also have a selection of timber shades of water color pencils that I can add some grain lines etc. that will blend in should it be required. The tinniest bit of color and a smudge perhaps with your fi...

I've never done lacquer over a full french polish. No problem with a spit coat. My concern would be oil contamination from the FP process, or excessive build up. If you are sure niether is a problem then give it a go. You'll know right away if there is oil contamination with the lacquer blowing apar...

I use a vacuum clamp for the exact reason of so much less likely to have a unfortunate ding from a slipping clamp. My pump will cycle on- off far more than other forms of vacuum work. Annoying yes, but my set up is in a dry room that I can close the door and not hear it.

It would have been about 12 years ago now. It was an off the shelf model that they had to fit the Martin body shape. Though it was still custom built as they don't carry stock that I'm aware of. I did not need to send them a template or measurements when I said it was just a copy of the Style 5.

I've built 2 of these years ago and went with Ameritage cases. Heavy, and pretty well made. They were the only ones I could find that were a good fit.

https://www.ameritage.com