Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

When I decided I wanted to be a full time builder I had been doing some time / process testing to work out where I could save time, increase accuracy etc. to be more productive so it would be possible to replace the income from the day job. Didn't take long to come up with a list of huge time waster...

The 4X6mm rods that are linked are the ones I've been using for 10 years.

I use the standard width tang fret wire and had used the SM 0.023" fret saw until I changed to doing slots on my CNC. When my fret slots were cut straight through on the table saw my fret boards always had a back bow. When I switched to blind fret slots (similar to a bound fret board) my fret boards...

No, the finish does not replace pore filling.

You still need to get that right if you want a a mirror like finish.

All these products are the premium ones in their line. Most expensive as well, but I've simply never come across a product that is even close to how good they are on timber. Switching to them has taken a minimum 4 weeks off my finishing schedule over Nitro, and the finish quality can't even be compa...

Been years since I've used 3220 but yes, it did work when I did. Though it's only in the pores and not a coating on the surface. I used CA on my head plate veneers to do quick fill before engraving and inlaying. On everything else I use Epoxy and there is no issues at all. I use Mirotone polyurethan...

Fascinating process. Love seeing the progress.

To order photo's the way you want, you have to insert them by picking the one you want in the list of phot's and inserting the code. Otherwise the software uses a default that never is in the correct order for me at least.

Haven't numbered them but going by my commision list and a rough guess of how many spec ones, it's well over 500. Then another 150 for uke building classes that I ran.

I've been asked to build quite a few soprano's the last year and orders still coming in. This one is the third I've built for this client who has a massive collection of instruments and knows what she likes in the way of sound and playability. This time she asked for Koa body for a warmer tone over ...

It glued as easy as any timber I've used, and bending wasn't a problem. I take my sides down to 1.7mm and just to be safe as I wasn't sure how it would bend I used some veneer softener that I got from Carbatec years ago and rarely use. Pore filling was about as easy as you can get as they are small ...

No not Macassar. I have a heap of that on my shelves. It's often called Black and White Ebony. To be honest I have no idea where it comes from, but it sure can be pretty.

Just finished another lot of instruments. This one of two for a client that has commisioned instruments in low G and high G versions. It's a 18.5" scale to accomodate the 14 fret to body. First time using Mun Ebony and was pleasantly surprised at it's workability and how it finishes. Sound board is ...

You may be able to find a shop that breaks down to 1 litre sizes. My supplier in Cairns for all Mirotone products does this and has them on the shlef.

Probably 0.7mm. Never measured it and like I said it's been around for 15 years or so.

0.3mm I think would not provide much support.

I use Aluminium roofing flashing instead of stainless or spring steel. As you found out the stainless is just a PITA and spring steel rusts. Especially when you live in the wet tropics. Flattens out easily after use. I use a piece on either side of my timber. Also use a piece to back up timber when ...

Tape tent method is my go to for all soundboard and backs. Especially when the outer perimeter isn't straignt. Often I'll cut to body shape in order to get two instruments out of a single plate. I've joined over 500 instruments this way Simple and fast and nothing more than some sturdy masking tape ...

When using as solid (not laminated) and manage to get the body closed up, most experienced builders will flood the timber with very thin CA that will wick into the cracks you just can't see. I learnt this the hard way the first time using it and applying my first coats of finish that showed them all...

BoteCote is the best epoxy I've ever used, especially in small batches like we regularly use for instruments. They have a tropical hardener that is the only one I use being up in the tropics.

I have glued several hundred of bridges on instruments using both HHG and PVA. Not once have I wiped the surface of the bridge with acetone. This very well could be your problem as acetone will pull the oils to the surface and most unlikey that you will ever get them all off. The only time epoxy is ...

I had thought for a long time that some sort of jig to "Candle" the centre seam on the back and soundboard to determine if it was a perfect join prior to glue up would be a good idea, but never got around to it as the bulbs of the day just weren't what I thought was appropriate. But after seeing a m...

Save that for backs. I would pick spruce of some sort first for the instruments you are building. If you are really wanting Aussie timbers then Huon Pine is great on soprano's or concerts. King Billy Pine is a good all rounder though it's fairly soft so if the player is not careful you can ding / sc...

Fret markers on ukes will sometimes have one on 3. I always include them unless asked otherwise. Then 5 , 7, 10, 12 and 15. Ukes never get them on 9. If you see one on 9 then you know that whomever built it doesn't know ukuleles. But as Martin said, the side dots are far more important than those on...

I'd also suggest the medium or thick CA. It is what Rich Turner used for gluing bridges to his Polyester finished instruments for years.

For years now most of my tenors get Worth Browns. There is a custom set of Thomastik-Infeld and Savarez Alliance available at Strings by Mail that are really nice and balanced that many clients like. And probably the new favorite that have just recently been released are Hannabach Goldin. Only avail...

I love it for concert and especially soprano soundboards. I've used it for tenor and a baritone but to my ear it doesn't bring the best out of those size of instruments. I've not found it at all difficult to work with. Nothing special required. Here is a sound sample of another one I built for a cli...