Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

Doesn't look like you had to be too agressive. Has it gone into the spruce, or is it more just in the finish?

You'd be better off buying a small milling machine if that is what you plan on using it for. I have a full size knee mill that is a kick ass drill, as well as full on milling anything from timber to steel. Works a treat for thicknessing bone for nuts and saddles.

All work well for either steel or nylon strings. But for my money on a classical my first pick would be Swiss Spruce or Lutz.

I switched to BoatCoat several years ago and would never go back to WEST Systems. For the first application I use their TPRDA thinning additive that really allows the resin to penetrate into the timber and get to the bottom of the pores. As I'm always building more than one instrument at a time, I w...

A new video I shot to demo using epoxy resin filling a mahogany baritone ukulele. Some might find it useful.


youtu.be/f1zt0g7oYXM

Weather couldn't be finer up in Cairns. Low 20's overnight to low 30's during the day and gentle occasional showers.

I'll be shipping this one out next week for a client in Sweeden. Australian Blackwood with Yellow Cedar soundboard. Ebony fret boards, bridge and head plate veneers. SuppleJack bindings. Sap wood from an offcut of the back, and burl from some local tree that I have no idea what it is, but the color ...

I've used it for bindings at 0.070" and 5 mm tall. Don't recal it being a problem but the edges are extrememly sharp until rounded over. You could easily cut yourself on them.

I use the CNC to built the entire compount radius board, including purfling lines, inlays and stopped fret slots. And go about other things while that is happening.

Can't say you'd ever be able to determine a difference in sound. I far prefer the string through bridge. Can be with bridge pins or without. I like without. Nice clean look and it's actually dead easy to restring. But it's surprising how some people are confused by the process. I've had a few music ...

asgilbert wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 21, 2019 1:49 pm

Wow, Piece of Art. Great job... Do people play these? I'd be worried about scratching it!!

Yes, as far as I'm aware they are played. I build them first and formost to be a great sounding and playing iinstrument.

Blackwood and Yellow cedar with ebony. Faux Ivory with Scrimshaw shading. Blackwood and Yellow Cedar Concert - 1.jpg Blackwood and Yellow Cedar Concert - 2.jpg Blackwood and Yellow Cedar Concert - 3.jpg Blackwood and Yellow Cedar Concert - 4.jpg Blackwood and Yellow Cedar Concert - 5.jpg Blackwood a...

I had mine insulated with foil lined fiber batts. My mate is a roofer and told me that for up here in Cairns that was by far the best option. The roofing sheets are pulled off to install.

I have plenty of soundboards that have wide grain spacing but so bloody stiff that I end up taking them thinner than others that would have narrower spacing.

Lots of my clients would pick that top because it looks like timber.

HHG and 4 Irwin clamps. One on each corner of the scarf. No jigs.

The HHG grabs and no slipping or squirming around like PVA glue does.

I presume you mean in glue that has been made up. If it's mouldy then toss it and make fresh. If you can't use up what you have in a resonable amount of time, then just make smaller batches. I mix up either 1 or 2 tablespoons of glue with double that in water in a small mustard jar that gets stored ...

It has a very long shelf life. I buy the 1 litre resin and I go through it in about a year. I know that the regular and tropical hardener will yellow with age, so I always use the non-yellowing hardener. I typically make up 10 grams of resin plus 4.4 grams of hardener to pore fill a couple of instru...

Only when pore filling. I found that with some timber it works better to use the TPRDA in at least 2 coats, but that could also be that I'm in the tropics and it will want to kick over quicker than in cooler climates.

Adding the TPRDA definately thins it out so it penetrates into the timber.

As far as I'm aware its clearer than the regular resin. I've only ever used it after talking with the chemist, explaining what I was using epoxy for and it was his recommondation. Also if you want to make up by weight here are the exact weights from an email he sent me. I often just make up 5 grams ...

rocket wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 06, 2019 9:44 am

What is Bote Cote like to sand in comparison to West’s and Z poxy?

Rod.

Never used Z Poxy but compared to WEST Systems it sands like a dream. You'll kick yourself into next week for not switching sooner.

I've been using it for years. And would never go back to WEST Systems. I use the Crystal and Non Yellowing hardener and always use TPRDA.

It is for a Koaloha which is what this fellow wanted replicated as far as physical dimensions of fret board and body shape.

I was asked to build this One of a kind ukulele (Ooaku) so the gentelman could practice on an instrument that had the same physical dimensions as his Koaloha but be pretty much silent unless plugged in. Made from New Guinea Rosewood neck and body, Huon Pine and Australian Blackwood for the ribs and ...

Plain unslotted Indian Rosewood. I bought the gross because the CITES certificate was the same cost no matter what the amount purchased.

You can have 60 at $100 including the shipping.

How many do you need? I have a gross in stock that ordered a couple months ago.