Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

I have just delivered this bass that was started just before lockdown. It is falcate braced, 17 fret to the body with a body loosely based on a 17" arch top shape. The specs are Soundboard: Huon pine (via David Linton) Back, sides, rosette & headstock: Tasmania myrtle (via Bobthebuilder) Neck & brid...

[/quote] I would love to see a video or read on how to set up a bandsaw to do its best work, how to fine-tune it for cutting even a 90 mm neck without sounding like a wounded animal or resisting like I am cutting marble. That is what happens to me every time I am thining necks, so I don't even dream...

Actually I don't have my own workshop, I operate out of Andrew Armstrong's Brisbane Guitar Making School workshop. The school is quite a large workshop with multiple benches, machine room and a wood storage/glue up room. That room is perhaps 2/3 of your space and has a little dehumidifier and aircon...

Looks like a great space. If it were me I would be attempting to humidity control that whole area. A little airconditioning unit/dehumidifier would would well in that space. You'll want a/c in there come summer anyway. And here in Brisbane, summer is only about 3 weeks away

Very nice Martin. Not much more local than next door. Wonderful spalt!

That is a handsome looking guitar Eric. Endgraft is fantastic, but those fretboard inlay are crazy Really great

Well done Steve. Looks like it came together nicely! How'd it sound? Are you happy?

Do you know what the bridge rotation is for each?

So I think you are pretty much there. 322.6 + 3.5 = 326.1mm from the centre of the bridge to the 12th fret. I would put some tape on the bridge and mark that position perpendicular to the centre line. Then mark the low e string position on that line and measure and mark 1.25mm behind the line. Then ...

Mark, yes with strings off I aim for a straight edge to be kissing the top of the bridge (for a steel string). I would only expect 0.5mm difference of SB compression with string tension. If the neck is pulled up by string tension you will need to adjust the trust rod so that it sits back flat or wit...

I also recommend Robbie's course, I now used a bit of a blend of Robbie's method and Trevor Gore's azeotropic hard shellac method and am finally happy with my FP

I could look at the bear claw all day Wayne. AND how interesting is the grain on the Rewarewa!

Really great work Frank. I was reading your description of re-entrant and wondering how I had got those mixed up

Nice work Frank. The rosettes and inlay work look great

Good topic, although I don't have any problems motivating myself into the workshop. The opposite really, a bit of guilt at spending too much of my spare time there. But basically I am motivated by the idea of leaving M-F corporate life for full time workshop life. Oh to be free of endless meetings, ...

You could compensate the nut. Bringing the front of the nut/zero fret location 3mm towards the body. If you have Trevor's books he gives nut compensation figures for a 645.16mm scale length this would place the bridge basically at scale with no compensation. It is a bit of learning curve if you have...

David, I've sent you a DM

Thanks, I had a really great time with that rosette and the many many mitres. I got this method from Paco Chorobo's flamenco building course. Banging in frets where the barbs are wider than the slot can sometimes cause back bow. As there is no truss rod in a flamenco there is now way you can adjust ...

A touch of acetone will melt the CA if heat doesn't. If you don't want to buy bigger fretwire, you can epoxy the frets in. They will need to be bent pretty close to the radius. You de-barb the tang (probably not necessary for you) and use a tooth pick to get the glue (I used a syringe) in the slot. ...

Nice, well done Bob. FB is a steep learning curve. Although once I understood you can quickly build a heavily and simply sand it flat, it became much easier.

Very well done Wayne How did you go bending the soundboard? Thinking about making that rosette shape hurts my head. I think you nailed the violin, soft burst colour.

If you haven't flush scraped your bindings, if you get some heat on that binding either with an old clothes iron (pro-tip, don't use the house iron!) or the bending iron you maybe able to clamp them into place

We've had some limited success with using veneer softener and clamping the sides with a steel plate to an external mould. It helped reduce the waves but didn't remove them

Welcome Steve. Interior looks nice and clean. Look forward to seeing it progressed/finished

Well done MAPP! No flys on you Seriously, nice. What finish did you use and do you have a close up of the rosettes?