Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

The book depository should be the first place to look for a book, they usually have what you want and it's usually cheaper and shipping is free.
Wayne

Looks great Martin, the finish on it looks superb, one day you'll have to do a finish tutorial for us strugglers
Wayne

Just an after thought, getting fibres tearing out when removing the tape is easily avoided by sealing the top with shellac first , I do this before I rout for bindings and also the rosette.
Wayne

Rc tonewoods sell 3m #401 tape as there binding tape , I thought I'd try it so I checked eBay found some bought 2 rolls, works great I've since bought another bulk buy of 6 rolls, I think it's as good as the stewmac tape especially now they've changed to that orange one. I've tried the filament tape...

Looking forward to that Steve, thanks.
Regards Wayne

I don't think a heat gun is really the way to go, if you're going to the trouble of building molds you may as well get a blanket like Martin mentioned and use that. I just give my sides a quick spray with water I don't soak unless it's a cutaway.
Wayne

I'd like to see how you do it too Steve.
Wayne

I know you don't want to use CF on this one but if you're worried about some bracing coming loose you could just lay some along the top after you've shaped it, it'll wick into the joints so they should be fine. All my guitars are CF and epoxy lattice braced, SS and classicals ( except for the odd fa...

Very unusual Martin, looks great. Is that an epoxy resin you've used?
Wayne

Coming along nicely Alan, looks very neat and clean be interested to see it finished.
Wayne

Try some fabric softener in the water, also I wouldn't soak them for so long usually 20min to 30min is enough but I've never bent mulga but works for ebony. Wayne

Welcome Tom, we all stuff up at times, it's part of the learning process.
Wayne

If I can't get it quite right on the shooting board I have a 40mm thick piece of MDF 100mm wide by a metre long with 80 grit glued onto it, I then run the plates back and forth to get rid of any bumps, as long as you hold it straight it works well.
Wayne

Thanks Craig for the reply. I've routed it now so all good, from memory I think I went about 4mm, I was really just guessing but it looks ok. Wayne

Gluing in a fillet will probably get glue in the channel too. I used to always use a fillet but now I just install the truss rod, I don't think the amount of glue seeping in will cause any dramas, I just keep the glue a bit thinner at the edges of the channel.
Wayne

Looks really nice Dennis, well done.
Wayne

Just wondering if someone can tell me how deep the string relief scoop on the Selmer headstock is, I can't find a dimension on the plans I have or the Collins book ( could possibly be my crappy eyesight ). I can probably guesstimate it but I'd rather have a dimension to work with.
Thanks Wayne

Nice Pete. I bought a diamond stone on eBay for about $40 400 grit on one side and 1000 on the other, for the cost I think it's great saves a lot of time compared to wet and dry on glass, which was how I was doing it.
Wayne

Very nice Pete, imagine what the b/s will look like under a finish they look great already.
Wayne

Looking good Wayne, nice touch on the end of the f/b. Do you cut the inlay cavities by hand too ( dremel ? )?
Wayne

Welcome Mick, most of us would've found the forum same way as you, looking for info and come across the forum ( then lurked for a while and then joined ).
Wayne

Gidgee is pretty heavy too Pete, you might as well use ebony. I don't use ebony anymore, I use EIRW or blackwood now
Wayne

Thanks Wayne, yeah I think he did a great job with the video and put a lot of effort into it..
Wayne

A friend has just done a video of this guitar, if anyone wants a listen I've posted the link. Wayne
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-reU2QO ... e=youtu.be

Thanks Mark, it's a nice red ( pearl ) paint, really common on Mazdas. I thought I'd go with a custom shape for the head stock to give it some originality. Wayne