Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

Thanks for all the replies. My belt sander jig is actually adjustable in pitch and yaw (the photo probably didn't show that). The original question was more about how to plane a 5 deg back bevel on the neck cheeks after the initial pitch (~1-1.5 deg) has been shaved. T+G seem to approach it by cutti...

Hi,

So Many thanks to Mark and others-this jig/fixture seems to produce accurate heel angles.

So how do you subsequently put a 5° camber on the shoulders (ie to make flossing the fit a little more efficient)?

a/ with a hand file
8/ chisel
c/ don't bother
Suggestions much appreciated

MK

Mark-

That headstock is pure genius......

Thanks Mark, That's really good info on locating the G pair. The tuners are from Guyker Tuner.jpg I bought 6+1 as they sell separately. I haven't used them before but they look cool and have a high ratio with a lock!! FWIW the Martin M7 is quoted as having a 1 11/16" nut= 42.86mm-quite a bit narrowe...

Hi, I am adding a G octave string to my latest OM build as per Martin's M7 Johnny Marr . Any suggestions on spacing the nut? EG I was thinking of marking it out as per a regular 6 string, then splitting the suggested (StewMac?) .070" between pairs (12 string) either side of the regular G location. S...

thanks Mark

I find myself facing a butt join having not allowed for the top plate when drilling the tenon holes for a bolt join ie missed by about 3mm. Do butt joins usually rout out a section of the neck to reduce the contact area to reduce the sanding area when adjusting the pitch/yaw? Lots of words there Taf...

Thanks Martin, I was hoping to avoid exposing my metalworking skills. I thought about using an alloy block to make the drilling of 2 x 30mm x 6.5 holes a bit easier but suspect after a few uses the soft metal would 'chew out' and end up leaving a sloppy over sized guide hole. I guess steel it is the...

hi

Any suggestions for a simple drilling jig to ensure mortise and tenon bolt holes are straight and aligned?

cheers

mac

possibly

Also the router was a "give-away" from a local woodworker group and maybe it's a bit worn and not rotating perfectly true.

I was using a 1/4" with a collet reducer in a Makita 1/2" but seconds after I started the router this happened. BTW The cutter was fully seated and tightened and the collet was also a 6.35 Carbitool ie a snug fit. IMG_5086.jpeg It became airborne and gave me quite a moment! After the smoke cleared I...

thanks Trevor, I got some chatter and that's what put me off. I'm sure your method is OK-I'm going to try the featherboard support suggested earlier so the 20x10 is supported/constrained 3 sides and feed the spruce through progressively using each new piece as a push stick. And not stand behind the ...

Thanks Martin

Do you use a fence or just freehand up to the bearing?

Do you find on say a first shallow pass it has a tendency to bite in?

thanks for the reply

thanks Taffy, Sorry my explanation isn't clear. The router is fixed to the table and the brace which is attached to a length of rebated timber is fed along the router bit with the top bearing providing depth guidance. The shaved spruce length then is flipped over and IMG_5082.jpeg the process repeat...

Hi

I'm chamfering 20x10 spruce using 'the book' method of screwing the brace to a rebated fixture and freehand routing on a table against the top bearing.

It all seems a bit hazardous- the 1/2' router is a beast!

Anyone got a better way apart from hand planing?

thanks

mac

Thanks as always for the detailed reply Trevor

MK

looks good- I'll look forward to seeing how you go carving the curly maple.

I surrendered after trying the gouge and used an angle grinder with an attachment to remove a lot of the (QLD maple) before going back to chisels and planes.

Where did you get the curly maple from?

cheers

mac007

In Design, the procedure for determining final backplate thickness mentions reducing the plate(s) to no less than 4mm before starting the analysis. It also says the plates must have a smooth surface to provide predictable results. My EI rosewood arrived at about 5mm rough sawn and by the time I had ...

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I'll try the .5mm pocket cut idea this week.

Cheers

MK

Apologies if this isn't the correct forum. Is anyone out there using CNC machines to cut fret slots? Sacrilege to some- but the ability to quickly adapt any scale to very precise tolerances is a plus. Also 'blind' fret slots are easy and deliver a nice aesthetic. However, I have found that even with...

Hi, I recently bought two planks of Satin Box with view to making some necks. I read "somewhere" it had good properties in terms of stiffness and stability. Unloading it from the car I noticed how heavy it is. On checking-it has a density ~900kg/m3 Curly maple seems around half that. Has anyone trie...

thanks for both great replies
mk

I think I have an answer to my own question so I'll post it for info. GG Design p49-50 discusses cross section dimension vs Youngs modulus. Since I'm using King Billy pine for the braces (Youngs Modulus 1/2 that of spruce) it theoretically needs twice the cross sectional width for an equivalent spru...

Hi Trent, As a long time f hole electric player I feel the pain. Benedetto states ".. .there is no way of being certain if a particular guitar will feedback. Some guitars (archtop) feed back, some do not" I have found in higher volume scenarios a notch filter or similar works to reduce the offending...

Hi I am building a Gore/Gilet type SS (no cutaway but the more modern shoulder as in Drawing 4) I made the back braces as per the text 20mmx10mm gabled. And glued them in place. Now I notice on the drawings for a live back (Drawing 6), the back braces are 6.3x16. Since I can't reduce the sides readi...