Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

I guess I build a bit differently. I have the top sucked down to a vacuum dish with the appropriate radius and have the rim over the top of it. The masking tape under the top raises it enough to account for the flattening of the upper transverse brace and neck block.

I use the appropriate number of layers of masking tape to fill the gap. Usually just a few layers.

You might want to check out Trevor's videos he made with Robbie O'Brien. The latest one explains a lot about the construction process and fine tuning frequencies at different stages, including B(1,1). Most excellent.

Thanks for your input Martin, I have tried a few different epoxy pour fill products with varying results. I'm always ready to try something new. I looked at the TotalBoat website and saw many epoxy options. Which one do you recommend? And is it the Epoxy Primer Thinner 200 you use to thin the epoxy?...

Thanks for sharing Martin. I always love to see other people's construction/progress photos. All look great.

Eric

I meant to say the DESIGN Volume, page 2-30 for further reading on this.

See the Build Volume, page 2-30 for further reading on this.

Eric

Beautiful sounding guitar, Wayne. Thanks for the YouTube link. I'm struck by how rich and even it sound across trebles, mids and base, and how closely this guitar sounds to the Falcate guitars I have made. I think Trevor is on to something here. Great job.

Eric

Thanks for the in-depth info Greg. To add to the data, I have made four falcate braced guitars using Sitka Spruce with a 100% success rate. I use three 1/16" laminates, and the secondary braces get steamed in a small steam box for about 15 minutes before bending. Primary braces bend nicely without t...

The link to this build has been changed:

https://ravenguitars.com/how-i-build-page-1/

Thanks for directing me to Tricky Fish Trevor. It was fun to re-visit that video.

Eric

Very kind words indeed. Thank you Trevor. I'm trying to work out attending your seminar with Robbie in July, but I have a relocation in the works that is getting in the way. I'd really love some first hand experience with you. If anyone is interested, I have an overly detailed description/photo essa...

Thanks you guys. The rosette was actually inspired by something I think I saw in this Gallery page. A collaboration between Trevor and another person, can't remember now. Anyway, steal a way, and put your own personal touch on it. There's nothing new in this world, things just rearranged infinitely.

My latest is a 00 sized falcate offering.
Common theme is koa heartwood/sapwood contrast.
Sitka spruce top.
African Blackwood fret board.
Austrailain Blackwood bridge.
Ebony binding.
Yellow/black purfling.

Thanks so much Trevor. This makes a lot of sense. It seems like doing the plate deflection test with the strings on would be a good idea for the same reason.

Eric

Hello, I'm determining the monopole mobility of a just finished steel string. I need to find the UN-coupled tops main frequency. The strings are off, and the sound hole is plugged with a cut off sour cream container. When I tap it into the analyzer with no saddle or bridge pins I get 188hz. With a f...

Thanks for the reply Richard. I guess I'll keep things about the same as my other builds. These are steel sting guitars, and the 6 to 7 mm brace height has worked well for me using Sitka spruce.

Eric

Hello to all, I have a friend who wants a smallish guitar with a short scale length. The body size straddles the line between how Trevor defines small and medium. It’s on the large side of small and small side of medium. The scale will be 24.9” (632.46 mm). My three falcate/live back guitars so far ...

Length and width for my OM sized steel string guitars are 482mm x 382mm.

Hello, I have data on three Falcate braced tops. All are standard OM sized, I don't have exact area measurements, but all have a 1/8" rim over hang for trimming and sound hole cut out. Tops thickness per my spreadsheet, all under 3mm. All Sitka spruce. #1 = 205g. No cut-a-way. This was an especially...

Thanks for the input guys, Sorry I missed your post on "spit peaks", I guess I forgot about reading it. I searched "double peaks" before posting this and didn't find what I was looking for. I'm still lacking a chladni set-up, next on the long list of things to do. Anyway, after stringing it up and r...

Hello all, I would have thought after two successful builds using falcate bracing and spectral analysis, I'd have a better understanding of it all. This plot has me confused though. The T(1,1,)3 has a double peak at ~218hz and ~230hz. This is consistent after many plots, and the amplitude of both pe...

Hey there Dave, I used individual UHMW blocks for the steps, and can adjust each one. It's just about like Trevor's model. A bolt from the end squeezes them them together and holds them securely in place. So far, I haven't been using Trevor's most accurate method, but getting fairly good results. Eric

I have had luck with the Speed Tiger milling bits. Price is pretty good:

https://www.amazon.com/SPEED-TIGER-Carb ... JLMJ5?th=1

I, too, am still wrapping my head around this nut compensating concept.

Thanks for the input you guys. Mush appreciated.

Eric

Sort of an off the wall question. The topic of string spacing at the nut takes a couple of directions. Equal spacing between string center-lines or equal spacing of the gaps between strings. If you take the later approach, why is the same principle not applied to the spacing of the bridge pin holes....