Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

Thanks Martin!
From that database, it appears to be difficult to work with and difficult to glue - did you find it difficult to work with and/or difficult to glue, Allen?

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Allen,

Looks fantastic! (as usual)
Please excuse my ignorance, but what exactly is "Mun Ebany"? I have not encountered that term before - is it another name for Macassar Ebony?

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Wayne, Great looking guitar! I have not seen Camphor Laurel used much on acoustic instruments. Around here (NSW Northern Rivers region) it's regarded as a weed - though I have made a few non-guitar-related pieces out of it. The bits you used must be "old growth", because it takes many decades for...

Hi Mark,

Have you had a look at Cranmer Guitars build "Making an Adjustable Neck Archtop Guitar"?:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NR7zfXn3zWs&t=577s
I don't know if it's anything like what you're after, but I found it interesting.

GregL.

Hi Martin,

Gorgeous as usual!
Two questions, if I may:
1) What does that Australian Red Cedar top sound like?;
2) What timber is the burl on the headstock?

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Allen,

Another stunning uke!
Just out of interest, have you ever tried dye-ing fiddleback Blackwood? Any colour? I'm thinking a red-dyed front, back and side fiddleback Blackwood with Maple binding uke might look a bit nice!

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Ric,

The first pic looks to me like it could be either King Billy Pine or Western Red Cedar.
The second pic definitiely looks to me like Rose Mahogany aka NSW Rosewood, Dysoxylum fraserianum.

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Peter,
In terms of an "un-live" back, a 3 or 4-piece gidgee back would not be a problem? Maybe the "aesthetics" of a 4-piece back could be a "feature"? (A 4-piece ringed gidgee back would be nice!)
Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Peter,
That looks fantastic!
If Ebony works, what about gidgee? (It is rare, but not (yet) unobtanium?)
Thanks,
GregL.

Hi RodC,

Great job!
A few questions, if I may:
1) What pickup is in/on the archtop?;
2) Is the amp based on a Marshall 18 watt TMB;
3) Where/who is the amp kit from?;
4) Are they Jensen 10" speakers?

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Graham, There are quite a few pics on the 'net, and here ('Atlas of Living Australia' https://bie.ala.org.au/species/https://id.biodiversity.org.au/node/apni/2894812) says "Common names include deep yellowwood, yellow cedar and tulip satinwood." My tree is not easily photographed, but I took a pi...

Hi Graham, Very nice! Is Satin Tulipwood Rhodosphaera rhodanthema? Also known as deep yellowwood? I planted a deep yellowwood tree near my house about 18 years ago, it's about 8-10 metres high now, maybe 300mm diameter at breast height, maybe 4 metres clear from ground to the first branch. In anothe...

Hi Trent, Looks great! Can you please indicate what timbers are used on the headstock (flame maple and ?, same as forearm and belly bevels? - same as body binding?) How was the supplejack to work? I have some figured supplejack for a fretboard - looks nice, probably almost as hard as gidgee! Thanks,...

Hi Graham,

Have you tried asking Graham at Loggerheads? Maybe an email specifically asking if he has any figured Brigalow fretboards, or knows where they may be got?
Graham Naughton info@loggerheads.com.au

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi, Just a sorta leading question, if I may. I have never seen a newer Taylor acousitc (nor will I probably ever see one!), so I'm asking the question of more "experienced" readers: - is that a full depth neck block at the top of the body on the patent, or only a "patch" (similar to a bridge patch)?...

Hi, I've been around here for ages, and watched many youtube build videos, and I don't recall any explanation as to why there needs to be a neck volute? I know a volute would strengthen the *historically* very vulnerable area under the nut, but with a scarf joint, surely that area is no longer extre...

Hi RodC,
Try having a good lookaround on https://www.evatco.com.au/
I have bought case and amp hardware from there before and found them rather good.
Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Bruce, You said ".. The stain is on both halves but most prominent on the treble side ...", can you please post a pic showing the entire soundboard? I don't know what has caused the stains, but a pic of the entire soundboard will show if the stains are somewhat symmetrical or not, which might ass...

Hi Martin,

Very nice!
A couple of questions, if I may:
What is the heastock overlay?
Where did you get the Australian Red Cedar for the neck? How do you like Aust Red Cedar? (I love it!)

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Martin,

Another gorgeous instrument!
I love Aust Red Cedar!
Can I ask: is the headstock-front "veneer" quite thick? With a nice bwb line around the outside - fibre sheets? What glue did you use on the headstock veneer and lines?

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Martin,

Thanks for answering all my questions!
Obviously the epoxy sands/shines up well!

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Martin, Wow! Looks great! Very nice! Some questions if you don't mind: - you must have an entire body mold - was the molding process very difficult? - is the whole thing very heavy? I looks a bit heavy with all that epoxy (not that I mind a bit heavy!) - what's happening just north of the nut? Ju...

Hi, Thanks Rod! I sent Pete an email, but I think he might be too busy to read emails! I think I have fixed the problem - in my usual ultra-cautious way, I started cutting fretslots with the fretboard still way too thick. I have planed the "mistake" away, and still have 6.5mm thickness - *just* thic...

Hi,

Thanks Bruce! Have just sent a reply PM!

GregL.

Hi, Do any of you know where I might get any ringed gidgee 680mm x 70mm x 7mm? (I have already tried Graham Norton at Loggerheads, but he can't help me at this time.) I am building a bass guitar (electric) for my son and he settled on 35" scale and 24 frets, with Silver Ash (Flindersia bourjotiana I...