Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

Looks good!

Is there a reason why the neck humbucker is a zebra and not the bridge?

A drop top can be used on any guitar. From my experience they're usually 3/8" thick, but are sometimes 1/4" thick.

They are used on hollow bodies, but it doesn't have to be a hollow body or f-hole to use one.

One of the best all year!

The shape's not really my thing, but the wood combo and the maple on the top, wow

What finish did you put on it?

Look at all that wood!

The workshop's looking great

I love the contrast of the neck lams, good work!

Some good advice on what?

You can't really explain how to build a full guitar in one post, so you'll need to be more specific.

Welcome to the forum though!

A big Ghost Gum tree which has been dead for a few years is in the process of being chopped down and if I want any I can have some of the wood. Is the wood any good for guitars or should I just leave it be?

Something a bit different to what you guys usually do but I've got a mini electric and a les paul acoustic build going on at the moment: http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/ee327/Guitarcam/004-5.jpg http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/ee327/Guitarcam/008-1.jpg I've done a bit more progress on both, bu...

That would be great if you could try and find some, Lillian.

Don't go to much out of your way to find any please.

All I said in my post, is that I'd feel better if the body wood was alder. I didn't say anything about buying it from some guy over in the states. Like you said I need to know exactly what I want, and what properties that bit of wood must have. But whether I know that or not doesn't matter because I...

In the part that you quoted I said that, that was for the Australian Woods that you guys recommended. I have not once said anything about getting a 'body blank' from some guy overseas, actually I haven't even said anything about ordering overseas, all I was saying that I am unable to handpick the ti...

Here's what I've got so far for tas myrtle:
$61.60
$45
$60
$46.85

It's not that I want to buy cheap, more that I don't want to waste my money, especially when I don't got a lot of the stuff

Bob that's probably true, I guess I'm just used to the guys on another forum I frequent who can buy enough alder for a body for under $20 from a lumber yard.

I saw that, but $150 or whatever they are is a ripoff for a body blank. I think $150 bucks is a fair price for a dirty great lump of wood that has been imported from the States. Hancocks are selling QLD Maple body blanks for $170!!! Possibly, but the one thing I've learnt over the year or so I've b...

Kim, thanks for that. I know about all of the differences in tone between each board/ tree of timber etc. Tonewoods are fairly different between the electric and acoustic guitar worlds. For the Australian electric guitar builders that I know of, Qld Maple is Australia's substitute for Honduran Mahog...

Gilet guitars sells Alder blanks. He did used to sell Poplar too but it doesn't appear on his website so maybe an email? I saw that, but $150 or whatever they are is a ripoff for a body blank. Basically the story is that I do prefer to use Aussie woods for guitar construction, but I want to make a ...

Qld Maple is more like mahogany tonewise though...

When you say where you come from, is that Cairns or Canada?

I also noticed that poplar grows over here and is also a weed wood, does anyone know where I could source that?

I don't know how much of you guys know about alder since your all mainly acoustic guitar builders. Alder is one of the most common woods used for electric guitar bodies and I was wondering if we had an equivalent or similar wood to it here in Australia to save me from buying a big chunk of wood from...

From the link above:

In Australia all wood dust is now classified as carcinogenic (liable to cause cancer)

What!?!?

kiwigeo wrote:

needsmorecowbel wrote:Oh right, that's because it isn't glued yet...

You mean youre cutting out and shaping the body before gluing together? Is that a good idea?

No, it's not.

I would be interested to see the clamping process.

If you were referring to my post about the join line, i meant the center line. It looks as though you have a big gap especially near the bridge end.

Tasmanian is very good for a guitar body. Warmoth have a tonewoods page on their site, look under koa seeing as though tasmanian blackwood and koa are very much the same.

why not put a truss rod in, especially on a one piece neck.

They are only 20 or so dollars including shipping and they'll save you a whole lot of hard work and drama later on. It's also an idea so that you will know for certain that your neck won't bow.

whats with the huge join line on the body? Also to reduce the weight you can chamber the body. Chambering is when you route out a whole heap of cavities to reduce weight, then you glue a top on so that they're unseen. A few examples: http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y290/Draak/AFTERBURNER/AFTERBURNE...

Hey man, the uke is looking great so far, although aren't you supposed to put the build threads in the musical instruments forum and leave the gallery for the finished item?