Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

I've stacked different woods on occasions...but you need to be aware of grain directions in the different pieces on the heel block. Sometimes you'll ended up with grain orientations that don't allow for easy working of the heel block with chisels and scrapers (ie youll get tear out in some of the l...

Jeremy D wrote:Did try stacking the sapele like the picture below?

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ty ,i tried it ,but still not enough.....this is why i consider use other wood= ..=

I've stacked different woods on occasions...but you need to be aware of grain directions in the different pieces on the heel block. Sometimes you'll ended up with grain orientations that don't allow for easy working of the heel block with chisels and scrapers (ie youll get tear out in some of the l...

hi every one ~! i got lots of help here! thanks ! there is a new problem~~ i bought a neck blank which is sapele ,35" quartersawn, however ,i found it is not enough for a whole neck including the head ,neck ,and heel in my classical guitar plan=..= casue it is not thick enough (23MM）。。。。then i found...

Hi Jerry It sounds like you are in NZ. Correct? If so whereabouts are you? Before spending any money on materials and tools the first thing most luthiers buy is a book on how to build a guitar. There are quite a few, you can sometimes pick them up at second hand book shops or borrow them from the l...

thanks very much ,
i think now i roughly know how to choose my material ,if it is possible ,first use spruce~!
thank u !

thanks everyone !! cause im a now guitar maker,,,,so ,,,,there is another question... it is that really important to use the most commonly bracing material?(like spruce or cedar) it will be a big change on the sound when i use different bracing material?(even they are all stiff and light） how about ...

im going to buy some bracing materail
Kahikatea and Tanekaha
how about this two ?anyione tried it before?
many thanks~~

jerry yan~

kiwigeo wrote:Jerry..see here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=7376

thanks a lot !

56nortondomy wrote:I've built 2 Macassar guitars and had no trouble bending with a heat blanket and mould. I don't think steam is the way to go, use an iron like the guys have suggested or a heat blanket. Wayne

wow ,thats look nice!
yeah ,bending iron is a good choice now i think ~!

I got a cheap Chinese bending iron on EBay also. It has worked well for about 4 years. Jerry, like Martin said, it is a matter of heat, more than steam. And thickness of the wood is critical. It is amazing how some timber will just not budge at 2.5mm thickness, but will happily do what you want if ...

Allen wrote:You can buy quite good ones out of China on eBay these days. That would be my choice when / if mine dies.

yes ,this is a good idea.....
haha ,but if steam box works that will be better= .=

kiwigeo wrote:

jerryyanpu wrote:thanks everyone ,now just strugle to get a hot pipe= =

If youve got the money just buy one from Stewmac or LMI....

Thanks!,,, yeah maybe this is the best way!

thanks everyone ,now just strugle to get a hot pipe= =

this is my first time to build a classical guitar ,,,i bought some macassar ebony sides firstly,, ,,,then i found it is seens very hard to steam bend it ..,,, but i dont have iron pipe ... so ,it is anyone know how can i steam bend the macassar ebony sides? cheers！ jerry yan Welcome to the forum Je...

this is my first time to build a classical guitar ,,,i bought some macassar ebony sides firstly,, ,,,then i found it is seens very hard to steam bend it ..,,, but i dont have iron pipe ...
so ,it is anyone know how can i steam bend the macassar ebony sides?
cheers！
jerry yan