Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

kiwigeo wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 22, 2018 5:30 pm

In your case if you line the caul with cork sheet you can then shape it to match the underside of the bridge by temporarily sticking sandpaper to the bottom of the bridge and working it over the cork face of the caul.

Cheers,

Hi Thanks for the tips. I thought the magnets might be strong enough. Didn't think I would need a huge amount of pressure. But on your advice I will make some long reach clamps. I do want to do it properly! It must be common, then, for a lamp to shine through a soundboard, illuminating the braces? T...

Thanks for the good info. My name is Cameron. The guitar top is pretty thin. I was running a small booklight in there to find out how much light escaped from the cracks before I repaired them... I was surprised to learn that everywhere I placed the light a red dot shined through. I couldn't replicat...

Apologies, can't seem to edit my posts. Below is the image.
In short, the board dips slightly between the braces, either that or the braces are raised.

I have attached a few photos

On the shot of space for the bridge the dips are those bits that are stripped back to bare wood.

Hello all, I have a nice Yairi guitar that has been knocked around a bit. 2 cracks along the grain of the soundboard have been repaired, but the bridge has pulled off (of its own accord and very cleanly). It still needs to go back on. I noticed that the bare wood where the bridge will go has sunken ...

Took forever to set this up. I ended up angling for a steel compensated slot. The E slot on the nut was worn plus the 11th fret had lifted slightly high, both causing intonation issues which added to the confusion of setting the saddle. I used a 3 and a bit mm saddle, which still needs some compensa...

I've got what you mean Nick. That's a good idea to ensure there is enough strength left in the bridge.

I decided to just cut a compensated angle for steels. Clamped and glued now.

Wasn't able to check intonation first. Guess I'll find out soon enough.

Aah, That's what they're called, pinless bridges. Thanks, I was trying to find something like that. Nick, by stepped down saddle do you mean that, for example, at the bottom the saddle could be 3mm while at the top it could be 5mm? Is there some well-established reason for not having a thick (5mm) c...

That might even be a picture of a solid-top Yamaha. The guitar in that picture is much older than mine but the bracing is the same. I was coming around to the idea of sticking a nice new through-body bridge on there but I've realised that unless I altered the angle that the D and G strings pull thro...

Perhaps these guitars originally ran special strings which didn't require compensation. I've heard about long lost Dynamic strings. One thing which is odd though, is that by the time my guitar was made Yamaha had long been making the FG series with compensated bridges, so they knew how to do it prop...

I like Japanese cars from the 60s (Datsuns). I've never seen any with plastic rollers, where did you find that? Yes, the neck is reinforced -with a square 'tube' of what I believe is aluminium. The neck of mine is really straight; but cosmetically the guitar is in poor condition. I don't know about ...

I have an early 70s Yamaha S-50a, which is basically a laminated-top Yamaha Dynamic. These guitars were engineered to accommodate both nylon and steel strings. But the bridge saddle was uncompensated; with my guitar at least, there are massive intonation problems when I use steels (I use silk and st...

you're right, it's clearly a laminate neck.

If this guitar is as cheap as it seems I wonder why they bothered to put a solid top on it.

Well, it sounds pretty nice to me and plays excellently.

I wonder if any of you guys might be able to offer me some information or insight into this guitar. I found it in Australia which is why I'm posting on this forum; perhaps you'll recognise some of the hardware. I bought it in Melbourne from a Salvation Army charity shop almost 2 years ago for 15 or ...